Deconstruction and the avant garde are subjective terms to describe designers that often overlap. Both make more art like creations however deconstruction designers are normally more quiet and cerebral which avant garde designers are more theatrical and flamboyant.
Andre Courreges: Born in 1923, he studied engineering then entered fashion in 1965. He came at the right moment of revolutionary thinking and the space age.
He claims to have “invented” the mini skirt (along with Brit Mary Quant at the same time, a quantum invention), and the heelless gogo boot. He emphasized synthetic materials and geometric shapes. The design and the presentation challenged the status quo.
Paco Rabanne: Like Balenciaga he came from Spain to France and first worked making jewelry for the design houses. He was recognized for space age costume design for Barbarella. Like Courreges it was his emphasis on synthetics and the new forms they could make that made his work seem ahead of its time from standard designers.
Rabanne, 1967 & 1968
Thierry Mugler: Began as a designer with the first collection in 1973. Has emphasized wide padded shoulders, solid colors, pvc and synthetics. Has inconsistently been able to produce couture in part because of lack of sales but has continued by creating costumes for Lady Gaga and Beyonce.
Mugler, Lady Gaga & 1997
Designers can also create forward thinking, innovative and dreamlike creations, that seek to make fantasy a reality but may not always end up in reality. The challenge of the avant garde is not only in the unrealized future of the designs or the limitations of their wear-ibility but their claim to be fashion rather than art or theater…?
Amaya Arzuaga, Spanish Fashion Week, 2009
Viktor & Rolf are a Dutch design team of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren. They initially worked at Margiela and presented their clothing in art galleries and unauthorized shows during fashion week. They consciously use form as a means of communicating a message and often embellish existing forms.
F 2004, F 2005, SS 2006