Thursday, February 25, 2010

Margiela & the Antwerp 6

Margiela, S 2009

Often associated with one another, Martin Margiela and the designers known as the Antwerp Six graduated from the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts at the same time. Margiela first worked for Gaultier and began to build his company based on a low profile brand presence and innovative designs. In 2002 he sold his company to Deisel and has played a decreasing role in the design. It is now called “Maison Martin Margiela.

Margiela 1991 & 1998

Maison Margiela S 2008

Margiela jacket made form a Swiss Army bag, 2006

Margiela negated the fashion industry. Using a cerebral, almost scientific method for his label, he has had employees dress in lab coats. He also does not advertise and the stores are very discreet.

The Antwerp Six refers to an important group of deconstructionist fashion designers graduating from Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts between 1980-1981. They shared a radical vision that established Antwerp as a notable location for fashion design. The breakthrough occurred in 1988 as the group rented a truck and set out for London fashion week with respective collections.

The Antwerp 6 in 1988

Together they showed deconstruction as a making and unmaking of forms and codes including exposing the backstage and form of presenting. Below clockwise from top left Ann Demeulemeester,
Marina Yee, WalterVanBeirendonck,
Dries van Noten,
Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs.

Walter Van Beirendonck

Dirk Bikkembergs

above 1991 and below 2009

Ann Demeulemeester

1989 and below F 2009
F 2009

Dries van Noten

F 2009

Dirk Van Saene

Marina Yee

Together these designers successfully bring the power of the fashion system into question on all levels from design to consumer good. Their influence is not in the commercial sector like power designers but rather in the creative realm where they have empowered many young designers.

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