tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90366386566298248282024-03-19T05:01:21.240-07:00Fashion & PowerUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger166125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-73487828489677493712011-05-10T10:00:00.000-07:002011-05-10T10:00:00.388-07:00Conclusion<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV_NzRm5gXsgvD5o9V0BKu599qeez2mJF5mwWVVAWS35bW_YRWSjgAcijBL9NgJ6d_Ovv3OB0NZZxN7xo-0-y71M2PKWoZ5kKbkolX6_qO3fjUaB-EWw9FIM0w_i07sWefcZV0sTLReYWp/s1600/carmen-kass4.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 270px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV_NzRm5gXsgvD5o9V0BKu599qeez2mJF5mwWVVAWS35bW_YRWSjgAcijBL9NgJ6d_Ovv3OB0NZZxN7xo-0-y71M2PKWoZ5kKbkolX6_qO3fjUaB-EWw9FIM0w_i07sWefcZV0sTLReYWp/s400/carmen-kass4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5604844806571700738" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br />Congratulations New York University students in Paris! You have completed Fashion & Power. </span></span><div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com38tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-43174098625948380862011-05-03T10:30:00.000-07:002011-10-10T21:28:45.975-07:00Global Chic<div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg2Hnz6JicAjUEqRZMDsqM4lVO-pSZwD30Jn2jdalIlmH7va424c5m54R0GN1cux9MRqstiuHNIJ2SOogrNLiJKPH6cZJB9mKAftyq4wdy_5XQ_xS5-Y7DUcyKcDuC04Y2a4LZtqrSPKY/s1600/1.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg2Hnz6JicAjUEqRZMDsqM4lVO-pSZwD30Jn2jdalIlmH7va424c5m54R0GN1cux9MRqstiuHNIJ2SOogrNLiJKPH6cZJB9mKAftyq4wdy_5XQ_xS5-Y7DUcyKcDuC04Y2a4LZtqrSPKY/s400/1.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601921798763839122" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 223px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">The images above and below represent stereotypical ways of understanding global diversity in fashion. There is a tendency to see the East in its archaic forms or to fail to see the contemporary importance of its culture and fashion amid difficult living conditions. Above the exhibition Les Orient des Femmes celebrates traditional Asian and Middle Eastern dress. Below the Western luxury dress is the focus amid the impoverished surroundings of India from Vogue India 2008.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQJwkJ4tpb5KsjXgRbc4FM1s1ZhHKXW0sSHeaCTWukAjE2qoNBDyFJEtrlpRvLN9zfLCgYnOW5ZvbEtK41D40vW00uD4f-gLmvHUoo51m8Z6AQG32UeDu5B7sKyuvkWCRvie1cCgroUnE/s1600/2_Vogue+INdia+2008.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQJwkJ4tpb5KsjXgRbc4FM1s1ZhHKXW0sSHeaCTWukAjE2qoNBDyFJEtrlpRvLN9zfLCgYnOW5ZvbEtK41D40vW00uD4f-gLmvHUoo51m8Z6AQG32UeDu5B7sKyuvkWCRvie1cCgroUnE/s400/2_Vogue+INdia+2008.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601921791501362802" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 281px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 20px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 20px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">There are designers outside of America and Europe who are beginning to make influential fashion. This has already been seen of course in the Japanese designers in Paris such as Yamamoto. The question is if these designers need to frame their designs with Western aspects like branding, or as seen below, Parisian showrooms.</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 20px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 20px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); line-height: normal; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-family:Georgia, serif;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwlHLI28JkW4iHA0S-J9J7akpDZLqvetLPTjA80uLa_MJKTuVrk7UhX2bKjcJiVcibb7hl42W5OZx3SYkQguFpmMD4x-4x5ZGJeZXD1qaSPdKidD3IR7hvwrM0bWpnXJIIU7yPvdWw0lG2/s400/Shanghai+wool+designer+Qiu+Hao.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601931716943926050" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 335px; " /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 20px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Shanghai wool designer Qiu Hao</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#333333;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQGWf3NE4DPXiHvfGXBHh9a9a6YYTT7-XOD14HuX5k3HLByZVi72JvcstRJMyREpKHdDwzDXicen0v0Pfo8DKxVyAuKNbBFcOFXIN6Z6cDSzQQHi1ZHztN6Q9rtbG2L0Rb4za8CSF0-ho/s1600/3.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQGWf3NE4DPXiHvfGXBHh9a9a6YYTT7-XOD14HuX5k3HLByZVi72JvcstRJMyREpKHdDwzDXicen0v0Pfo8DKxVyAuKNbBFcOFXIN6Z6cDSzQQHi1ZHztN6Q9rtbG2L0Rb4za8CSF0-ho/s400/3.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601921782167762386" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 394px; height: 400px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">As we look to China, there are a number of factors which led to their domination in manufacturing. Production has transformed China and it is now a leader in contracts with some of the top fashion labels.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD_rBWBqMphG0LDBYSDb6H9EuaeDBsmrC9SEL3LKNEEbs6MDZASqeqqOQe-N2Ub4rqYzrKG5ZxKtwiSOfu0zkL38CqkJgtWDlaf4wcAWRKccv9VMwamG1wju40aAqBhWPXEBKdhIigP7w/s1600/4.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD_rBWBqMphG0LDBYSDb6H9EuaeDBsmrC9SEL3LKNEEbs6MDZASqeqqOQe-N2Ub4rqYzrKG5ZxKtwiSOfu0zkL38CqkJgtWDlaf4wcAWRKccv9VMwamG1wju40aAqBhWPXEBKdhIigP7w/s400/4.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601921779028661442" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 296px; " /></a><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKIZCWqOETpZYliVbBqcG405i0kyk469SyLKWZotcTWPQaCYOZmau23aqCSrf5jVrvqXm2eZAispmyviIYtJezvmpwLYO-EpP2xXjSkmfs6jWELoqAsEjhnmpaR79sY9-_F1SUOj0Pd4E/s1600/5.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKIZCWqOETpZYliVbBqcG405i0kyk469SyLKWZotcTWPQaCYOZmau23aqCSrf5jVrvqXm2eZAispmyviIYtJezvmpwLYO-EpP2xXjSkmfs6jWELoqAsEjhnmpaR79sY9-_F1SUOj0Pd4E/s400/5.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601920329410751490" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 112px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Above the 3 major aspects of globalization: production, markets and economies. These areas are experiencing a convergence of countries along with convergence of information. Below the official tourism photo of the "factory of the world," Guangzhou which has grown from farm to global urban center in a few decades. More apparel and other products are produced here than any other one place in the world.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeUh8-xRfL9sKHY643S-elRX66j-NfdbIynjCO8CUUq-qyqayT0qsEIVySbCIc2tml7YsFKTDo7GJ9DD_k7S0pRD6rTbTlI7qA_sMeHajkQAg5OtW1MBCTFVhLkflZq5X8iV7GToWNcpw/s1600/6.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeUh8-xRfL9sKHY643S-elRX66j-NfdbIynjCO8CUUq-qyqayT0qsEIVySbCIc2tml7YsFKTDo7GJ9DD_k7S0pRD6rTbTlI7qA_sMeHajkQAg5OtW1MBCTFVhLkflZq5X8iV7GToWNcpw/s400/6.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601920321262674706" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 209px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblwWnJ2V-wnfFNqotnDBLttqUAvnE0BqJUosKUCN5MlpCYbP0c2p9uVYOZC2ZPLwydSPIJmEQF26oNej0-0Kqnght1LNazmiP0CjgLwbmupV8LP2IuFtgpRw1yOWU63kCosQV-MtJoWI/s1600/7.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblwWnJ2V-wnfFNqotnDBLttqUAvnE0BqJUosKUCN5MlpCYbP0c2p9uVYOZC2ZPLwydSPIJmEQF26oNej0-0Kqnght1LNazmiP0CjgLwbmupV8LP2IuFtgpRw1yOWU63kCosQV-MtJoWI/s400/7.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601920316502893714" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">One of the consequences of Guangzhou's over production is major pollution. Above the government's position is to confiscate personal motorbikes and cars to reduce emissions but as seen below the smog is also the result of factory production. See the consequences of Apple factories <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/technology/2011/apr/30/apple-chinese-workers-treated-inhumanely">here</a>.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc-F_YjxkLFHR0iCVt-tbTLt-myyhTCEruDXebUeNSdgUnmyJyilY4aRSyhTCQjfOHK5pkb0sekOGfsBrERpAuMyHxpykFeAww9OGyAz_Nv4DKqSZQH0vKowd7q_QDt98_0uUOYUFiS8g/s1600/8.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc-F_YjxkLFHR0iCVt-tbTLt-myyhTCEruDXebUeNSdgUnmyJyilY4aRSyhTCQjfOHK5pkb0sekOGfsBrERpAuMyHxpykFeAww9OGyAz_Nv4DKqSZQH0vKowd7q_QDt98_0uUOYUFiS8g/s400/8.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601920311503690066" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 302px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJSmKGNZ24PVBS41DogyXNuf9ji4F6Ys-DAn4LDPAfLiGoxRWSfFMWaQhtLAtQLVCZHk_rUUFT3TXZgDQA0SGFMHknEdzBVsHlZ4KsqCS7k61GGoey4QW9fGLQ1Fh1Fgem79SbzTAgsM/s1600/9.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJSmKGNZ24PVBS41DogyXNuf9ji4F6Ys-DAn4LDPAfLiGoxRWSfFMWaQhtLAtQLVCZHk_rUUFT3TXZgDQA0SGFMHknEdzBVsHlZ4KsqCS7k61GGoey4QW9fGLQ1Fh1Fgem79SbzTAgsM/s400/9.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601920300800608450" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 338px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Above Rivoli's book on the path one t-shirt takes reveals the power structures of the world. Below the emerging BRIC countries (Brazil, Russia, India, China) are said to become the leaders of the 21st century.<br /></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-YyCqG2R5tjLE03jUzoWxRMMICLDvnEIl1qxZ4N311pOzMdaKeM3uHgt5FUCY73QQaKIl2QqUW90UGZzJ8ed8CIhXLvBcIrL6M91_5f3xHs2lxD9TWd2PVNOkCBxJg1_d3K_fJbcb0Bc/s1600/10.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-YyCqG2R5tjLE03jUzoWxRMMICLDvnEIl1qxZ4N311pOzMdaKeM3uHgt5FUCY73QQaKIl2QqUW90UGZzJ8ed8CIhXLvBcIrL6M91_5f3xHs2lxD9TWd2PVNOkCBxJg1_d3K_fJbcb0Bc/s400/10.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601919610118538786" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 121px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU3NGZXzsSzWecvG7il_3fWdNrT9UabZlyjP1Frtl2OGEGQRRp1zVPvdmXmCsqsyx32I8sXd3OeAZgVSqLnWqeXiIPb90X5aUZY6Fqw4HUsyAGQfbwXnhgrRciMPw6oyGi-5EHcb3JGpI/s1600/11.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU3NGZXzsSzWecvG7il_3fWdNrT9UabZlyjP1Frtl2OGEGQRRp1zVPvdmXmCsqsyx32I8sXd3OeAZgVSqLnWqeXiIPb90X5aUZY6Fqw4HUsyAGQfbwXnhgrRciMPw6oyGi-5EHcb3JGpI/s400/11.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601919603529567202" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 362px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Above an organization Made in China supports that despite rumors, workers are willingly producing goods in safe conditions. This contradicts </span></span><a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/technology/2011/apr/30/apple-chinese-workers-treated-inhumanely"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">recent reports</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"> that workers are treated inhumanely to meet demands. Below the organization Not Made in China boycotts foreign products.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT-aKm6QJ2rVkfQAzpIJ1velgQEI4ifmfZKTZH67o11tv1wTb-io0osS32iwNgsNcKAUfIUVrfiaJtJjSDPI9QZu1cOtO_mg5QFskGCCBK0oBl-3z13Hug1wIhRYxoC1-97_8kAfuc3lA/s1600/12.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT-aKm6QJ2rVkfQAzpIJ1velgQEI4ifmfZKTZH67o11tv1wTb-io0osS32iwNgsNcKAUfIUVrfiaJtJjSDPI9QZu1cOtO_mg5QFskGCCBK0oBl-3z13Hug1wIhRYxoC1-97_8kAfuc3lA/s400/12.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601919597892871730" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 242px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Below, some luxury labels are now promoting other countries. The American owned Rugby has fine wools and silks made in Italy. The Italian label Prada has kilts made in Scotland and textiles made in India.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhthmvOXThNlfXXEer-zsMtYCy2vbdw5ZfoGn3vMsKRX1wszBy12ZlvLT1CD6Lzilhv0bbwNj5Qc6DzwDukn0OLeXc6W3uoXEu-4KeVZ7qopUzyP60XO67cHBDckUgfZk3BvAiSPrh63pE/s1600/13.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhthmvOXThNlfXXEer-zsMtYCy2vbdw5ZfoGn3vMsKRX1wszBy12ZlvLT1CD6Lzilhv0bbwNj5Qc6DzwDukn0OLeXc6W3uoXEu-4KeVZ7qopUzyP60XO67cHBDckUgfZk3BvAiSPrh63pE/s400/13.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601919588174914354" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 246px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDIXE7qSwzPDCpbUo6XhDFJm2vsSL4dsiNazhg4I7bI2Uz-EXXgj2wSYTxy3GoNdDdXRW8FPBZZTbaDO9KZ6gyeCg_4j4VJIG9V915ciLfd3BElB3D-OhnRIUvTXqeX-4or-OSo1O9cnhW/s400/Picture+20.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601922847429235266" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 371px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Above the global movement has generated a new consciousness, especially being green. Sustainability is a global movement toward better integrity in design production as seen below. Reduce-reuse-recycle is the order of least amount of energy wasted.</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0UILi2YkwTcCsTJxdcdCVI-7xc8R9SCSjIgq7K2vPC5lCD7CbT6b11iHlW09GDfq5B1LUQHhw0jQVg2xcHT58XwTrA5O63lj_tOUCfFnyxi8_1g4-3-U1pDg2qneccVvVdI689RAVFYU/s1600/15.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0UILi2YkwTcCsTJxdcdCVI-7xc8R9SCSjIgq7K2vPC5lCD7CbT6b11iHlW09GDfq5B1LUQHhw0jQVg2xcHT58XwTrA5O63lj_tOUCfFnyxi8_1g4-3-U1pDg2qneccVvVdI689RAVFYU/s400/15.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601918968228400738" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 347px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib5t1ItkjKlzWRC7INiZUa1RjatpPoIUGh69TtYtCYA7zhdtBDMA0aTypxvs3yB1zausFLqu06sklZQYgPR9fvAQEcJAu_jxUZlwDDoJKwXTlhlbLpMl8usucwLR6ingy8C3lZr56SZPs/s1600/16.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib5t1ItkjKlzWRC7INiZUa1RjatpPoIUGh69TtYtCYA7zhdtBDMA0aTypxvs3yB1zausFLqu06sklZQYgPR9fvAQEcJAu_jxUZlwDDoJKwXTlhlbLpMl8usucwLR6ingy8C3lZr56SZPs/s400/16.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601918961661700370" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 275px; height: 400px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Above and below fashion companies try to use ethical fashion practices as advertising platforms. American Apparel has promoted better working conditions and Lacoste has a limited edition that supports endangered crocodiles. This has led to criticism of greenwashing and other trends to appeal to consumers.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCEW7mNLYB-MsEmVPrfXgNReqYiE9W2I7fc_4UQp4FI3ppUP4tUlIBLKAVaisVyedOy50YKfE_9l7lFmg3LIu7sD66gLpjRJg9iWBdMT7cASQXYFdEIE2oaikEk2ggcZXwdNdHT_ayOYs/s1600/17.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCEW7mNLYB-MsEmVPrfXgNReqYiE9W2I7fc_4UQp4FI3ppUP4tUlIBLKAVaisVyedOy50YKfE_9l7lFmg3LIu7sD66gLpjRJg9iWBdMT7cASQXYFdEIE2oaikEk2ggcZXwdNdHT_ayOYs/s400/17.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601918958279431730" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 252px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKNPvK1BiIpH0Afi-sPOwYtwrAKOE9oApj3oORCWIYpqreZinGMco84GbZgkPK2v5cMmSUJRb6LTiF5OcNU3rsH5fV_wZOzL9qLar_fCd3AEZ58ni8CvujZHcoze8VQgkwVHDU5OMDTu4/s1600/18.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKNPvK1BiIpH0Afi-sPOwYtwrAKOE9oApj3oORCWIYpqreZinGMco84GbZgkPK2v5cMmSUJRb6LTiF5OcNU3rsH5fV_wZOzL9qLar_fCd3AEZ58ni8CvujZHcoze8VQgkwVHDU5OMDTu4/s400/18.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601918953640055170" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 245px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Above and below fashion designers with eco policies. Rogan Gregory of both Edun and Rogan above and Stella McCartney below who refuses leather and fur and is wind powered in manufacturing and stores.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUr48m32V_wil0RniMKNz3ZEQixg3OZ46UFHawiatgFhdjf65nE40LkCuGbIDKLRH5m0wCohhqOykSPfd9oMKhsCmzIcMZcWwHrJ_sjWWbSdAvwgB4cTogdw3WEUMTFVhrzlNSmJGfYk/s1600/19.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUr48m32V_wil0RniMKNz3ZEQixg3OZ46UFHawiatgFhdjf65nE40LkCuGbIDKLRH5m0wCohhqOykSPfd9oMKhsCmzIcMZcWwHrJ_sjWWbSdAvwgB4cTogdw3WEUMTFVhrzlNSmJGfYk/s400/19.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601918945622386754" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 284px; " /></a><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI-bY55Rnzst3bKvjS6ZAuM82dK0heOqgo2kxCcl8ezugztNDjV8x_Yz-E2uPhbB5bdlm_iXcl5K4KAJlxSfFvFnztNUNBoYtfSx8Reuk59v_0BycoJ1KZH06bRTjfJr947uwwg4SdxF8/s1600/20.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI-bY55Rnzst3bKvjS6ZAuM82dK0heOqgo2kxCcl8ezugztNDjV8x_Yz-E2uPhbB5bdlm_iXcl5K4KAJlxSfFvFnztNUNBoYtfSx8Reuk59v_0BycoJ1KZH06bRTjfJr947uwwg4SdxF8/s400/20.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601918191698115794" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 400px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Looking closely at India reveals that it may be possible for an emerging power to balance global commercialization and traditional fashion identity. Above the first Vogue India and below traditional ikat fabrics.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDcrhMs0ezj9wCWRrO1Iu7sk5UxuDryc7kaM_8dHLIbJ6u26MGi3egtvXb5WfawtFBOZCCJamzpc9ZgvB3mWV2Rn41dDvXrb4XddtFdUdazUReywc-uc3LWmihHkeYFC_OKiPT0oF3PG8/s1600/21.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDcrhMs0ezj9wCWRrO1Iu7sk5UxuDryc7kaM_8dHLIbJ6u26MGi3egtvXb5WfawtFBOZCCJamzpc9ZgvB3mWV2Rn41dDvXrb4XddtFdUdazUReywc-uc3LWmihHkeYFC_OKiPT0oF3PG8/s400/21.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601918183314281106" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 200px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_ZdpJzXHPWjHGfT7CpV0VFKneOxe1888pK1yfCTBn24oSzAhj4fTvcFEdfbjVkpNcZO2iuKeHfsOXIS65kCNHWSdRP3U4FtYth3WfjIbvtBTbRQeV2csxRh7CTv0qk3wAmX43ahBx_Y/s1600/22.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_ZdpJzXHPWjHGfT7CpV0VFKneOxe1888pK1yfCTBn24oSzAhj4fTvcFEdfbjVkpNcZO2iuKeHfsOXIS65kCNHWSdRP3U4FtYth3WfjIbvtBTbRQeV2csxRh7CTv0qk3wAmX43ahBx_Y/s400/22.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601918181556203762" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 246px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Above the traditional dupatta was made famous through Bollywood. Below the most famous breakout film of the region, Chandni of 1989.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkhOu6WKSoZr4XW0HlbFgix9I2VJrLkfcSR5J1-ZjMq_pf0APcmwk91Mn0xCwnJfyYL8_DNi7VrAKo8lFcRNvg3TKCatS-H9XnOTt1vNke-3NBW8rRAH8eY5flTQH5Lnd8q71HUEnomqg/s1600/23.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkhOu6WKSoZr4XW0HlbFgix9I2VJrLkfcSR5J1-ZjMq_pf0APcmwk91Mn0xCwnJfyYL8_DNi7VrAKo8lFcRNvg3TKCatS-H9XnOTt1vNke-3NBW8rRAH8eY5flTQH5Lnd8q71HUEnomqg/s400/23.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601918168733985698" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 254px; " /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Below, although Vogue is a Western frame onto Indian culture the most famous Bollywood celebrity has brought global attention to India. </span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Aishwarya</span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"> </span></span></span><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Rai has a love of global fashion and has been featured on several covers. But it raises the question if to be a success in an Eastern market, one needs to be framed through Western media or associated with Western fashion labels? Does global power have to dress Western?</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1wknVyUZWCoJo8Iw-tVT5nSvam3Ae68m8s39DtUKdnYnVkJT5-HR-VveWiWLPl1ST6QdEc6C9OT0Bx2_yztGv4hmv0UXegfWW8Euxf_jUvT2h4tzSWOjpvRNIjo1BIR5im5WIVoR8t_U/s1600/24.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1wknVyUZWCoJo8Iw-tVT5nSvam3Ae68m8s39DtUKdnYnVkJT5-HR-VveWiWLPl1ST6QdEc6C9OT0Bx2_yztGv4hmv0UXegfWW8Euxf_jUvT2h4tzSWOjpvRNIjo1BIR5im5WIVoR8t_U/s400/24.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5601918156338228994" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 192px; " /></a></div></div><div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-49207152128134660832011-05-03T00:55:00.000-07:002011-05-03T11:58:18.258-07:00Fashion on Film: An Analysis of The September Issue and Valentino: The Last Emperor<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 16pt; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Fashion documentaries have taken a popular upturn in the 21</span></span><sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">st</span></span></sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> century as more and more people grow increasingly curious about the elusive and exclusive world of fashion. By allowing outsiders a peek into this elite society, fashion documentaries are able to give insightful views of what goes on behind the scenes of the 300 billion dollar industry.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 16pt; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Two of the most well-known fashion documentaries </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The September Issue</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> and </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Valentino: The Last Emperor</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">serve as examinations of the fashion industry and the people that run it, whether it is Wintour directing fashion media or Valentino supervising fashion production.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><a href="http://www.pretextes.ca/images/voguesept2007.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 560px;" src="http://www.pretextes.ca/images/voguesept2007.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Vogue September 2007 Issue, Cover with Siena Miller</span></span><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:16.0pt;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align: none;text-autospace:none"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It is without a doubt that Anna Wintour is one of the most important and publicly recognized figures in the realm of fashion. As the Editor-in-chief of American </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Vogue </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">(also dubbed the fashion bible), the Britain-born Wintour is constantly in the limelight. She is constantly described to be aloof and unapproachable by the media, earning herself nicknames such as “</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Nuclear Wintour</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">” </span></span><span style="color:#0000F6;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[1]</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. and “</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Ice Queen</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">”</span></span><span style="color:#0000F6;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[2]</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Produced in 2009 and directed by R.J Cutler, </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The September Issue</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> is a documentary that closely monitors the making of the </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Vogue </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">September 2007 issue, an edition that was publicized as the magazine’s largest issue to date. As the star of the film, Wintour brought much interest to the movie with her detached and cold guise. And yet, the huge amount of hype behind </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The September Issue</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> was not only due to the public’s curiosity and Wintour’s reserved nature towards the media. One should also credit the success of the movie, </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The Devil Wears Prada</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, a loose adaptation from Lauren Weisberger’s best-selling novel of the same name, which elevated Wintour’s celebrity status back in 2006 for the similarities she shared with the titular character Miranda Priestly, a tyrannical, demanding boss who oppressed her subordinates. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span><a href="http://www.celluloidfilmreview.com/images/the-devil-wears-prada-5-freshpalette.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 361px; height: 477px;" src="http://www.celluloidfilmreview.com/images/the-devil-wears-prada-5-freshpalette.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Comparison of the Anna Wintour's office and the set of the Devil Wears Prada<br /></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The September Issue also introduces the public to </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Vogue’s </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Stylist and Creative Director, Grace Coddington. Although she began working at Vogue the same day as Wintour, the film shows her limited control within the magazine, as her creative ideas and visions are shot down on an occasional basis</span></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=9036638656629824828&postID=4920715212813466083#_ftn1" name="_ftnref" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[1]</span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. Coddington presents to viewers the anti-Anna, someone completely opposite of the intimidating editor.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> According to the film’s director, R.J Cutler, "Anna is all about ‘next,' and Grace is most interested in a historical perspective on art and fashion. Every time they got together, sparks flew."</span></span><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=9036638656629824828&postID=4920715212813466083#_ftn2" name="_ftnref" title=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[2]</span></span></a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:16.0pt;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align: none;text-autospace:none"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The September Issue Trailer:</span></span><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tq4wo4JYy2s"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tq4wo4JYy2s</span></span></a></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:16.0pt;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align: none;text-autospace:none"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=9036638656629824828&postID=4920715212813466083#_ftn2" name="_ftnref" title=""></a></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">This contrasting dynamic of a creative mind paired together with the brains behind the business is seen as well in </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Valentino: The Last Emperor</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. Despite its numerous lighthearted and comedic moments, the film ultimately trails Valentino’s final glory days as a fashion designer, leading up to a climatic moment whereby the possibility of Valentino’s retirement is put into question. Known to be the last true couturier, the film gives an insightful view into the glamorous, excessive lifestyle of Valentino Garavani. Produced in 2008, Matt Tyrnauer directs the documentary, revealing the legacy of Valentino to the audience, in which they see the history behind the founding of his company and the contrast it has with his present-day life. The Italian fashion designer and founder of the Valentino SpA brand and company is renowned to have dressed some of the world’s most glamorous women such as Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor and most notably, Jackie O</span></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=9036638656629824828&postID=4920715212813466083#_ftn3" name="_ftnref" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[3]</span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.</span></span></p><a href="http://2ndtake.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Valentino-Garavani.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 512px; height: 341px;" src="http://2ndtake.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Valentino-Garavani.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Valentino at his 45th Anniversary Celebration in Rome<br /><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Valentino’s unique affectionate and yet bickering relationship with his business partner and companion of 50 years, Giancarlo Giammetti, the honorary president of the Valentino Fashion House, forms the centre of the film. As aforementioned, Valentino and Giancarlo share a similar work distribution to that of Wintour and Coddington, where in this case, Valentino designs the dresses, and Giancarlo ensures that the company is financially secure.<br /></span></span><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:16.0pt;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align: none;text-autospace:none"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Valentino: The Last Emperor Trailer: </span></span><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGJJRPWqvzM"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGJJRPWqvzM</span></span></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:16.0pt;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align: none;text-autospace:none"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Concluding, with the many different minds working within the fashion industries, it is unavoidable that there will be collisions and conflict of ideologies and personalities. As portrayed by the documentaries, the working relationships between Wintour and Coddington as well as Valentino and Giancarlo are ones filled with tension and disagreements due to incompatible principles and ideas, but what holds each partnership together is the equal effort and desire to reach a shared goal. Thus, both films portray a dynamic working relationship that has resulted in the garnering of strong influence in the industry through the collaboration between the creative and the commercial.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></o:p></p> <div> <hr align="left" size="1" width="33%"> <div id="ftn"> <p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=9036638656629824828&postID=4920715212813466083#_ftnref" name="_ftn1" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[1]</span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">“The September Issue”. Credit (R.J Cutler). </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Actual Reality Pictures. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2009. In a scene where Wintour cuts several of the photographs from a photoshoot titled' Paris Je T’aime' (photographed by Steven Meisel), Coddington bemoans to her colleagues, </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">"She's killed half of it."<o:p></o:p></span></span></p> </div> <div id="ftn"> <p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=9036638656629824828&postID=4920715212813466083#_ftnref" name="_ftn2" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[2]</span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Moylan, Bryan. “</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">How Grace Coddington Stole </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The September Issue</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> from Anna Wintour” Herogram. http://gawker.com/#!5344335/how-grace-coddington-stole-the-september-issue-from-anna-wintour</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p> </div> <div id="ftn"> <p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=9036638656629824828&postID=4920715212813466083#_ftnref" name="_ftn3" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[3]</span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">“Valentino: The Last Emperor”. Credit (Matt Tyrnauer). </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Acolyte Films. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2008.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p> </div> </div> <!--EndFragment--> <p class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></p><!--EndFragment--> <div> <hr align="left" size="1" width="33%"> <div id="ftn"> <p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=9036638656629824828&postID=4920715212813466083#_ftnref" name="_ftn1" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[1]</span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Oppenheimer, Jerry. “Front Row: Anna Wintour” </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Saint Martin's Press Inc. (25 Feb 2005) </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">pp. 243.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p> </div> <div id="ftn"> <p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=9036638656629824828&postID=4920715212813466083#_ftnref" name="_ftn2" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[2]</span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">“The September Issue”. Credit (R.J Cutler). </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Actual Reality Pictures. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2009.</span></span></p><p class="MsoFootnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></p></div></div><div style="mso-element:footnote-list"><div style="mso-element:footnote" id="ftn"> <p class="MsoFootnoteText"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;mso-bidi- font-family:Times;mso-bidi-font-family:Courier;font-size:16.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span></span><span style="font-size:10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family:Times;font-size:12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> </div> </div> <!--EndFragment--></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-68816185053150266442011-05-02T20:03:00.000-07:002013-09-13T18:31:45.154-07:00Ethical Fashion: Myth or Future Trend?<div align="left">
by: Christine Lee</div>
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"Ethical fashion: myth or future trend?" is a feature from the <strong>Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management</strong>, which seeks to provide a forum for the publication of refereed, academic papers and more applied case study material in the fashion manufacture and retail sectors. It also seeks to draw contributions from all over the world, recognizing the international nature of the garment and retail industries. This piece was published in 2006, which is pretty recent and therefore still applies today.</div>
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<strong><strong>Catrin Joergens</strong>, the author, is currently the Global Senior Product Manager for the NEO Label in the Sports and Style Division at Adidas in Shanghai. She was educated at The University of Manchester where she studied international fashion marketing and at Hochshule Niederrhein where she studied textile and clothing management.</strong></div>
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The approach is <strong>analytical and empirical</strong> considering it is basically a case study utilizing research methodologies such as focus groups and questionnaires to come to conclusions.</div>
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<strong><strong>Ethical fashion</strong>: fashionable clothes that incorporate fair trade principles with sweatshop-free labour conditions while not harming the environment or workers by using biodegradable and organic cotton.</strong></div>
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There is a rise in the ethical consumer market because of new ethical fashion brands such as American Apparel and People Tree, who are trying to bring a fresher approach to the market and to gain interest from the ordinary fashion consumer. These actions bring about the issue about whether ethical consumerism is “back in fashion”.</div>
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People Tree’s Safia Minney with workers in Bangladesh<br />
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Primary research was undertaken that focused on the following topics of research in regards to ethical fashion: awareness and concerns about ethical issues in the fashion industry, resulting behavior, beliefs about ethical fashion, effect on purchase decisions, and attitudes towards possible solutions. The overarching theme, however, is whether consumers are willing to “sacrifice their personal needs to support ethically produced clothing”.</div>
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The sample groups were conducted in Frankfurt, Germany and Manchester, England. In Germany, the respondents of the focus group were all students between 21-25, and between 22-26 in England. This sample was chosen specifically because they are the next generation of ethical consumers and seem to take more interest in fashion than any other group of consumers.</div>
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As for the group discussions, there were five people in Germany and four in England, which are considered small sample sizes because the recommended size for groups are usually 8-14 unless the subject matter is sensitive. In which case, fewer participants would be advised.</div>
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The questionnaires were sent out via e-mail to 100 participants in Germany as well as in England. But only 64 were completed and sent back in Germany and 53 in England.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1dtogZ_zBXPCYUKK6J9FNI_H3Pi1WZBuUFCkScrTcXnrgYGV2K1K8x1E0h5uUr-SBROvC8Ca1_3-lqUc9Jltohw9nYILFS4G_nhHkh_esbTG0PauDJoraEYyDU_Lr5IyrflVhCwcDuPhz/s1600/Ethical-Fashion-at-London-003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1dtogZ_zBXPCYUKK6J9FNI_H3Pi1WZBuUFCkScrTcXnrgYGV2K1K8x1E0h5uUr-SBROvC8Ca1_3-lqUc9Jltohw9nYILFS4G_nhHkh_esbTG0PauDJoraEYyDU_Lr5IyrflVhCwcDuPhz/s400/Ethical-Fashion-at-London-003.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Noir (Danish ethical label) Catwalk at London Fashion Week 2009</div>
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(<a href="http://www.treehugger.com/Noir-Catwalk-AW09.jpg">via</a>)</div>
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The results of the focus groups in <strong>Germany</strong> were that even though participants were aware of ethical issues in the fashion industry and even the working conditions, these were not the main concerns when shopping. The prices of the clothing seemed to forgo ethical issues as well as the image of the product. Environmental concerns were even less of an interest. Conclusively, the reason for poor awareness of major issues is because of little media coverage and therefore it is hard to differentiate between companies that have good social responsibility and poor social responsibility. As for potential of ethical fashion, some participants are in conflict about whether unethical business behavior would really influence their shopping behaviors, but in the end it really matters about style and price.</div>
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In the <strong>UK</strong>, findings were similar, however the biggest issue participants have towards the fashion industry is the huge offer of disposable fashion and wearing fur. They also seem to have no knowledge about environmental issues or health damages to workers during the production process. And even though they do look for the “Made in” sign and think about the consequences, it still does not influence their buying decisions at the end. One person states “you actually have to define ethics and what is acceptable in that country” showing that it is difficult for them to define unethical behavior. Also, one of the main difficulties for the potential of ethical fashion is the limited offerings of ethical products that fit their tastes and prices. Merely having information about the ethical issue is not enough to allow them to make the right choices because it is hard to tell which brands utilize certain conditions in producing clothing.</div>
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In conclusion, all of the participants would prefer that their clothing was produced ethically, but the crucial buying decisions are style and prices, which both supersede the ethical issues. Also, these participants and consumers feel like they do not have much of a choice when it comes to buying ethically produced clothing because the majority of the apparel is available only through catalog order, not worth the prices, or not considered fashionable compared to other brands. Therefore, mere knowledge on this issue is not enough to strongly influence purchase decisions.</div>
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Nevertheless, the majority of respondents showed favorable attitudes to buy ethical fashion and see a potential in this approach as long as it is comparable in fashion and price to other brands. The majority also thinks that consumers have to take the responsibility as well as the corporate sector and government to force companies to act more ethically. Although the findings from this research did not demonstrate that ethical issues affect consumers’ fashion behavior, it is difficult to draw definite conclusions about ethical behavior since only one specific group was examined. More knowledge about ethical issues in the fashion industry is needed as well.</div>
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<img src="http://bienmis.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/american-apparel-made-in-america-tee2.jpg" /></div>
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(<a href="http://bienmis.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/american-apparel-made-in-america-tee2.jpg">via</a>)</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-37508552277743595232011-05-02T10:56:00.000-07:002011-05-02T13:25:25.586-07:00Made in China - Arthur C. Mead<div>by Bianca Murillo</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Pe5k5DxzXB_0Vn6EvsYvlNGTU3LhFMVQyy-yT7nWm39eGOgrgwoBWar3FlSmmNrpiu6JbegBzrj1mdXFGrR-AAbZhhqZPV0t-D-BOLglS34eUPm9xaNmH41j4eI089oc_wNT1ReFMEc/s1600/china.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 171px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 129px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5602206965998670802" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Pe5k5DxzXB_0Vn6EvsYvlNGTU3LhFMVQyy-yT7nWm39eGOgrgwoBWar3FlSmmNrpiu6JbegBzrj1mdXFGrR-AAbZhhqZPV0t-D-BOLglS34eUPm9xaNmH41j4eI089oc_wNT1ReFMEc/s320/china.jpg" /></a><div><br />The author Arthur C. Mead taught Economics at Boston College, Simmons College in Boston and worked at the National Bureau of Economic Research before coming to University of Rhode Island where he teaches now. Mead's research interests are in the areas of regional economic performance, demographics, and the economics of higher education. He teaches a course by the same name of this piece, “Made in China”, among other courses. His approach is both historical and theoretical, using historical economic and social facts as a basis for a theoretical analysis.<br /><br />Mead begins by discussing the nature of the apparel industry. Mead asserts, “Apparel is a comparatively small industry with 3.9 percent of world trade in manufactures…but it has an importance for exceeding its size…Apparel is important because it’s mobile, and such it functions…as a leading indicator” (419). Mead argues that the apparel industry is on the move and to understand the changes one must look at the force behind those changes, which he argues is China. Mead goes on to argue that in order to understand China's implications and power one must look at China's past which is inextricably linked with their future and therefore the future of the apparel industry.<br /><br /><strong>The Past and Present</strong><br />Mead argues that three decisions altered China's economic history and relationship with the world.<br /><br />1)In the 15th century when China chose to isolate itself from the world which allowed for a foundation to be laid for the communist revolution and eventually establishing Mao Zedong as leader of China in 1949 (419)<br />2)Mao's decision to choose isolation from the world as a development strategy (419)<br />3)Deng Xiaping's decision to open China to the world in 1978 with four special Economic Zones modeled after Japan's economic miracles (420)<br /><br />As a result of number 3 the world's labor supply grew by 1/3 and China's exports began flooding the market (420). The impact by China on the apparel industry was however muted by two complex developments in international trade policy: <em>quotas</em> and <em>regional trade preferences</em> (421<em>).</em> The effect of these developments can be seen US apparel employment falling 49% in the 1990's and in the movement of apparel productions to poorer nations (421).<br /><br /><strong>The Future</strong><br />The apparel industry received two shocks: China's entry into the WTO (<em>World Trade Organization</em>) in 2001 and the end of the MFA (<em>Multi-Fiber Agreement</em>) in 2005 (422). This lead to a wave of low price imports that quickly changed the market as it was known. The US and EU quickly moved to analyze and restrict these influxes. Apparel imports from China were up a staggering 221% in 2005, while the average apparel price fell 18% (422). These changes led to even more widespread effects in other countries as well. Mead asserts that the winners given all of these industry trends are China, India and Pakistan, with a few other countries reaping benefits as well.<br /><br />Ultimately, Mead is wary of China's endurance and the extent to which China can maintain it's competitive advantages and sustain them for the long term. He argues that china has a virtually endless supply of labor, but just not in the ideal locations which will result in a movement of operations inland which comes with it's own effects (423-24).<br /><br />Mead concludes with the notion that China’s power has been noticed before and heed should have been taken when Napoleon warned, “Let China sleep. For when China wakes, it will shake the world” (424). In Mead's opinion, China has awoken, and it has shaken the world. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-29883470996348369972011-04-26T10:30:00.000-07:002011-06-01T20:07:31.033-07:00The Significance for Costume Design<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> <!--StartFragment--> </span></span></div><div><span style=" ;color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span style=" ;color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">"In a millennium the old 'swords and sandals' epics will be seen as actual Roman films, dating from the Roman period, as true documentaries on antiquity… But this is already our civilization. It is already increasingly difficult for us to imagine the real..." </span></span></span><span style=" ;color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">-Jean </span></span></span><span style=" ;color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Baurdillard</span></span></span><span style=" ;color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">, 1996, Screened Out</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ZdN4awIRl3o06wSQprRy7pzDfLCaYt99Y53m_SUyQHegiUcdHoFkOidbhFz8mDRb5Wv7Fm9w9j6iv7omMqv0ptS28OS2m1lDpQdZ3ZLO5DHFqEsI-3eVV1-_P3Laz2c_gnFBfmA7-4A/s1600/1.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ZdN4awIRl3o06wSQprRy7pzDfLCaYt99Y53m_SUyQHegiUcdHoFkOidbhFz8mDRb5Wv7Fm9w9j6iv7omMqv0ptS28OS2m1lDpQdZ3ZLO5DHFqEsI-3eVV1-_P3Laz2c_gnFBfmA7-4A/s400/1.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599703519211597778" /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></span></span></a><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">What Baudrillard suggests is that film costumes have the power to influence not only contemporary society or fashion but also history. <b>The significance for costume in fashion and power can be understood in three main ways:</b></span></span></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">-the power of costume to influence society and history</span></span></span></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">-the power of costume to influence fashion</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "><span style="color:black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">-the power of costume to function as art, where roles and conventional boundaries are tested</span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ZdN4awIRl3o06wSQprRy7pzDfLCaYt99Y53m_SUyQHegiUcdHoFkOidbhFz8mDRb5Wv7Fm9w9j6iv7omMqv0ptS28OS2m1lDpQdZ3ZLO5DHFqEsI-3eVV1-_P3Laz2c_gnFBfmA7-4A/s1600/1.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></a></span></span></span></span></span></span><div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYxT-mX6riu-sk_YP78lh2O1RxePtthkhp70VzCrLTaEm86P7CGWPmH1Xbb44CvhoogiBcV2LRgQslbT2k8TiITcn_44lPMGzqZB_QlLz4iJgWdzvAvvw5p8YxfDb-VD7_DB4yJPO3R4/s1600/2.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 158px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYxT-mX6riu-sk_YP78lh2O1RxePtthkhp70VzCrLTaEm86P7CGWPmH1Xbb44CvhoogiBcV2LRgQslbT2k8TiITcn_44lPMGzqZB_QlLz4iJgWdzvAvvw5p8YxfDb-VD7_DB4yJPO3R4/s400/2.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599703513235968850" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above Annie Hall, costumes by Ruth Morely, influenced the Manhattan bohemian chic of the 70's. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 174px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1B9sWDYr2GVzg6xyWLRwF5JNtBNoycgoJ6uqOn4b4aEL_Vbn8kimUfm54PKMY8RpyNlycZx771z8bafGxqZ69nebOeHtaZ5sERB-_dmisJwKwfc_Y3V6cWmyTygC6K1i5SRM8-RhyphenhyphenD1k/s400/4.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599703490012300914" /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above, David Bailey and designer Mary Quant and below Blow Up based on the actual fashion scene in London but also built up the myth and power of the subculture.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibELDQYIEqQB0EO-3DSKU7tocUSFZHordaOfkr9MBawQgYXW6eIGeIhp-JH17qSSFWibzN6CQbpvIw9Hb6w3JL0kJm9CXUZ9jZkSDB_UzXp7tzqTNs_PTPUB7jTksGX_X_aiw8UMuU7BY/s1600/3.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibELDQYIEqQB0EO-3DSKU7tocUSFZHordaOfkr9MBawQgYXW6eIGeIhp-JH17qSSFWibzN6CQbpvIw9Hb6w3JL0kJm9CXUZ9jZkSDB_UzXp7tzqTNs_PTPUB7jTksGX_X_aiw8UMuU7BY/s1600/3.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="text-align: left;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 248px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibELDQYIEqQB0EO-3DSKU7tocUSFZHordaOfkr9MBawQgYXW6eIGeIhp-JH17qSSFWibzN6CQbpvIw9Hb6w3JL0kJm9CXUZ9jZkSDB_UzXp7tzqTNs_PTPUB7jTksGX_X_aiw8UMuU7BY/s400/3.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599703503863151170" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiov7vaXIdl3zJazPBaorjaUDPKntxxYlmojcap1sAdR9xg_3nAKapxGa8AMsKsFPtIc7c-zhxh7XzS_LRexBO1CoaMqSPxPJIlUVdtubDD9QFajYsu5uUx7KGRilY__o8XxQl35Z4gfN0/s1600/5.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 289px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiov7vaXIdl3zJazPBaorjaUDPKntxxYlmojcap1sAdR9xg_3nAKapxGa8AMsKsFPtIc7c-zhxh7XzS_LRexBO1CoaMqSPxPJIlUVdtubDD9QFajYsu5uUx7KGRilY__o8XxQl35Z4gfN0/s400/5.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599703003691112162" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above a myriad of films influencing fashion and below Prospera influenced Prada Fall 2007.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigABEHk44TR_cSjsOSbYIzkg7HUhpZoFAJXfqCt2EGKwpbsZxoKykvLtFTFjy8NZ_jGGS0bbOuyOlIYicXsDuOzOWRBW3vuR1bSUJziRKn2hHpeg0DO1GaHZJwWsYTbmQKCatjZhixZFg/s1600/6.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 295px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigABEHk44TR_cSjsOSbYIzkg7HUhpZoFAJXfqCt2EGKwpbsZxoKykvLtFTFjy8NZ_jGGS0bbOuyOlIYicXsDuOzOWRBW3vuR1bSUJziRKn2hHpeg0DO1GaHZJwWsYTbmQKCatjZhixZFg/s400/6.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599702995738972610" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDGNkM_pTg9XjB4a_w3F8_2uQd-U4eE_NpXg7i0dhnGYqNqck8XyYaqLheyEjLR_ua0-QJZzCM35XBcxYGXsjuVRBNNlQC4HOvSE4rW8TTeb2AOM-WPGd7kLWFJ2GMKAkLqYdSOpIKBDY/s1600/7.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 175px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDGNkM_pTg9XjB4a_w3F8_2uQd-U4eE_NpXg7i0dhnGYqNqck8XyYaqLheyEjLR_ua0-QJZzCM35XBcxYGXsjuVRBNNlQC4HOvSE4rW8TTeb2AOM-WPGd7kLWFJ2GMKAkLqYdSOpIKBDY/s400/7.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599702994812681458" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Fashion and film are a two way dialogue. Above a fashion editorial by Unwerth based on Godard's Breathless and below popular films inspired by fashion.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYd2P2dJ8QIvOPZeQgpwXH0M2jIOcd5IAM3N3Tu9gVfz7HzsR7Kfy2ex3dGfZuDNF7yiM64G-Wf5TfJAKOXYOIxpxstgNSQJnCsRhgMIrnbnL9fDGLVydm4NT08zbFn1fF2oCTkTPxvd8/s1600/8.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 275px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYd2P2dJ8QIvOPZeQgpwXH0M2jIOcd5IAM3N3Tu9gVfz7HzsR7Kfy2ex3dGfZuDNF7yiM64G-Wf5TfJAKOXYOIxpxstgNSQJnCsRhgMIrnbnL9fDGLVydm4NT08zbFn1fF2oCTkTPxvd8/s400/8.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599702983216462482" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbz08jnL3ra1f34v-b_sjjBdMQy_ydVMd5ggmG8lRw1RLUbPzfNDFFuFsBebZnCGekCU00R9Eapuo0hyFmIHUaHYOotttYO0T9qoG6Bceahb78M8xYZTkA8wZz-7jf0Jphhet9YqZjt5g/s1600/9.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 195px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbz08jnL3ra1f34v-b_sjjBdMQy_ydVMd5ggmG8lRw1RLUbPzfNDFFuFsBebZnCGekCU00R9Eapuo0hyFmIHUaHYOotttYO0T9qoG6Bceahb78M8xYZTkA8wZz-7jf0Jphhet9YqZjt5g/s400/9.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599702972303186706" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The way women have been depicted in fashion films is conflicting. Above Diana Ross as an empowered designer in Mahogany, 1975 and below more common representations of models as in Downfall Child and Lipstick.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw6CJwvO4j2USyq3AJnD6m-mCxNgcCUU75NzoXadfsEKNWn2AfNPrOSm1lQT1uOAPdfQ9SZVWl9aRNAj6Gdk7KsZV9VgqP37L_HtHAgOn619pqzah9apyxDhZzuVIzqBsDpq1F_26Dwiw/s1600/10.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 316px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw6CJwvO4j2USyq3AJnD6m-mCxNgcCUU75NzoXadfsEKNWn2AfNPrOSm1lQT1uOAPdfQ9SZVWl9aRNAj6Gdk7KsZV9VgqP37L_HtHAgOn619pqzah9apyxDhZzuVIzqBsDpq1F_26Dwiw/s400/10.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599702166890184914" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyHzFCr9biAcMhvcNVJpZ2ZYR2XxOFNuJB-9BTpj1w1GC68FCaRZb2YCl68g-UkOKiI3n3qispXYjBE9EAg5lWjbIgvDdayMjz26JplFSlQxFNljWanEJKL9aw3YDl45-hZNtJpVZUUlk/s1600/11.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="text-align: left;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 231px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyHzFCr9biAcMhvcNVJpZ2ZYR2XxOFNuJB-9BTpj1w1GC68FCaRZb2YCl68g-UkOKiI3n3qispXYjBE9EAg5lWjbIgvDdayMjz26JplFSlQxFNljWanEJKL9aw3YDl45-hZNtJpVZUUlk/s400/11.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599702156422053810" /></a></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above Wim Wenders early documentary on Yoji Yamamoto for the Centre Pompidou and below the recent popularity of fashion biography docs and films.<br /></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4va7ZcMUiwvbWhx_Aw8EmUonU2kitDuT6gF1WavPR_cl86LgYBhtW_f57j6R1-zCh3YOJiNTcTDCPaSlFZIHfMrz7fumcfCfFwhR8QgoM72cvXM9No3DeeA7JLdHEiE7YYrQzP89MttU/s1600/12.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></span></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4va7ZcMUiwvbWhx_Aw8EmUonU2kitDuT6gF1WavPR_cl86LgYBhtW_f57j6R1-zCh3YOJiNTcTDCPaSlFZIHfMrz7fumcfCfFwhR8QgoM72cvXM9No3DeeA7JLdHEiE7YYrQzP89MttU/s1600/12.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="text-align: left;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 232px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4va7ZcMUiwvbWhx_Aw8EmUonU2kitDuT6gF1WavPR_cl86LgYBhtW_f57j6R1-zCh3YOJiNTcTDCPaSlFZIHfMrz7fumcfCfFwhR8QgoM72cvXM9No3DeeA7JLdHEiE7YYrQzP89MttU/s400/12.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599702149715392402" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3KjAp-xoXKWVO_A4-bzGDDhclXaEsbHqVgdDlV1oFCj7r5U9E0s6GAoerSDGuAwh7gf-omzqqnNn76njM4EZJqic2DDmJfEo59kv99h9LQ04CN2Xl494J_pfsBs1n5CMJCqSeEnMahpk/s1600/13.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 313px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3KjAp-xoXKWVO_A4-bzGDDhclXaEsbHqVgdDlV1oFCj7r5U9E0s6GAoerSDGuAwh7gf-omzqqnNn76njM4EZJqic2DDmJfEo59kv99h9LQ04CN2Xl494J_pfsBs1n5CMJCqSeEnMahpk/s400/13.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599702144568086306" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The master costume designer in history is Edith Head, nominated 35 times for Oscars. Below her sketch and design for To Catch a Thief, 1955.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiInw9OGFWkN1oKg_pI7ZKMYhFfE_Ln3PXLn3qtqVkWb2Qo8z5NpzDioNMAlUx16dtxfG3ZxlcHZkem0CY00KZrjSjMD0hR7ub6d4cs1pYa8MhhYnE8_Y74hb6vP28Ft2cjRM-c8tgyIMI/s1600/14.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 329px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiInw9OGFWkN1oKg_pI7ZKMYhFfE_Ln3PXLn3qtqVkWb2Qo8z5NpzDioNMAlUx16dtxfG3ZxlcHZkem0CY00KZrjSjMD0hR7ub6d4cs1pYa8MhhYnE8_Y74hb6vP28Ft2cjRM-c8tgyIMI/s400/14.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599702133212778818" /></a><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Below notable costume designer Milena Canonera holding her Oscar for Marie Antoinette. She also designed for Out of Africa, Chariots of Fire and others.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx7hFbXAtGmHPQOGTTXGUvCxhonlmr5HVntmwhzu93p7N78-ItGRdfzN9XASBaTA01REPhvO0h0NqxS66vGY0w4CMaxE0kUPrKJBt_cWaG16I3WR8OZJCDdmpmhHkjLBm-eeBJNAXjafs/s1600/15.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 259px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx7hFbXAtGmHPQOGTTXGUvCxhonlmr5HVntmwhzu93p7N78-ItGRdfzN9XASBaTA01REPhvO0h0NqxS66vGY0w4CMaxE0kUPrKJBt_cWaG16I3WR8OZJCDdmpmhHkjLBm-eeBJNAXjafs/s400/15.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599701668796057970" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmS49AypYRuTWmix1lDcgTTirai-Zpkvlb9aBqYytvWhpA0gOm8ewJACg_YDanj6ocNWguOOOWNi3TTNOaLG4439j1mkJrV5Oy-tUywv2blRG_UXxxcVnwcZK889OBKW0icvfReyEIt3s/s1600/16.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 145px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmS49AypYRuTWmix1lDcgTTirai-Zpkvlb9aBqYytvWhpA0gOm8ewJACg_YDanj6ocNWguOOOWNi3TTNOaLG4439j1mkJrV5Oy-tUywv2blRG_UXxxcVnwcZK889OBKW0icvfReyEIt3s/s400/16.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599701665218448034" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above Pat Field considers herself a "costume stylist." Rather than make the clothing, she selects top brands for Sex & the City, The Devil Wears Prada and others. Below, pieces in the films available for purchase suggest the films function to advertise.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1YrCVbg2_Klbim8Lw64f9zBnUt7xlanndVzF8qUsdSqzpWmI11Uyws04WHwjeX06gCpBnExLdQvvKnLYZdefjGAbYJHg1hW1g96khWDko1iOhWgalvP85R7f18DBwJ1OAUh8DimzvU-8/s1600/17.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1YrCVbg2_Klbim8Lw64f9zBnUt7xlanndVzF8qUsdSqzpWmI11Uyws04WHwjeX06gCpBnExLdQvvKnLYZdefjGAbYJHg1hW1g96khWDko1iOhWgalvP85R7f18DBwJ1OAUh8DimzvU-8/s400/17.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599701658882182834" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiOe47kaOEY329Rh-o2rDdNMy7Fxaqio2DPiwzy9bXHxXG6rNPzO58wOAoJ12xOIUPos6CNcE4wrX9lrgLcfCKHHwXDCNE8eCyHt5v8KEhvGl4xQxQgCIOD2a_zhARLWL_u7CBjJ2MNxI/s1600/18.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 340px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiOe47kaOEY329Rh-o2rDdNMy7Fxaqio2DPiwzy9bXHxXG6rNPzO58wOAoJ12xOIUPos6CNcE4wrX9lrgLcfCKHHwXDCNE8eCyHt5v8KEhvGl4xQxQgCIOD2a_zhARLWL_u7CBjJ2MNxI/s400/18.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599701657037851106" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Context is essential to costume, understanding not only the time the film is supposed to take place but also when it was written and when and where it is filmed, which all influence the style. Importantly a film does not look like only the year it is taking place. A film in 1980 must not only have things in 1980 but should show sliding context, items from before 1980, as reality would contain and emerging styles about to come. Below the Last Days of Disco of the 80s, from 1998.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiPAaBAGNOLwdjNW3nOQGy_UcKvHgkx_Gl363mpVWGA-sjdLoNwFzypLAQK2K5m_sLshPBEAOcnLAHz4KBGLh9us8lONTVkVTvqnngUksbIehfcesA72OKmsCCh4Qi8SE5gI5cTk6Ajfc/s1600/19.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiPAaBAGNOLwdjNW3nOQGy_UcKvHgkx_Gl363mpVWGA-sjdLoNwFzypLAQK2K5m_sLshPBEAOcnLAHz4KBGLh9us8lONTVkVTvqnngUksbIehfcesA72OKmsCCh4Qi8SE5gI5cTk6Ajfc/s400/19.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599701655924896850" /></a><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtSquNUb7g-9QyWecLAKVl9aUnFIWiYDmRN5Ort1QkV6nH3922ajGuy1FoEdv_KV0gSTodWc_51kaYjSgxDpjwcP2yNanuHGj-UfFmyvpCtdXs5wONXVe8xlDbHelQQGK6CDDcZeOrN1w/s1600/20.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtSquNUb7g-9QyWecLAKVl9aUnFIWiYDmRN5Ort1QkV6nH3922ajGuy1FoEdv_KV0gSTodWc_51kaYjSgxDpjwcP2yNanuHGj-UfFmyvpCtdXs5wONXVe8xlDbHelQQGK6CDDcZeOrN1w/s400/20.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599701152958807746" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Historic costumes recall the hegemonies associated with those eras, giving characters assumed strengths. Characterization can be very specific to one unique personality as in The Clockwork Orange below. The character transformation shows the lead in 3 phases.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiorXJLDhtdi8IsPAIK0QPl0s3Fu85wZf43mYO3ITdixU6Vy_Rra52vykD453ccUDqa0vom9nxUYmcfyyhyphenhypheneYhyphenhyphenVpvhaEOXFQjuwxygeJ42ZHd9EO7Y9o_sy4brDAbWBEqUTp8LuNCxpuA/s1600/21.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 254px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiorXJLDhtdi8IsPAIK0QPl0s3Fu85wZf43mYO3ITdixU6Vy_Rra52vykD453ccUDqa0vom9nxUYmcfyyhyphenhypheneYhyphenhyphenVpvhaEOXFQjuwxygeJ42ZHd9EO7Y9o_sy4brDAbWBEqUTp8LuNCxpuA/s400/21.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599701146127569202" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaHrV7va4dpu57tZjwn3e8VDE3g6iJi0eEQupfPKUoZlNYk7nG04WL_afL8YQQwSDw4jk9yGoH5nwojh2rmrJ5AWwxgIHjN0j7hnDMjIudfsxQJYFeU45AN1GAJfvv-7DdubSg-qBxv8w/s1600/22.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 315px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaHrV7va4dpu57tZjwn3e8VDE3g6iJi0eEQupfPKUoZlNYk7nG04WL_afL8YQQwSDw4jk9yGoH5nwojh2rmrJ5AWwxgIHjN0j7hnDMjIudfsxQJYFeU45AN1GAJfvv-7DdubSg-qBxv8w/s400/22.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599701142752091362" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above and below characterization and subcultures with Robert Redford in more conventionally powerful WASP roles and below Al Pacino in subcultural styles of gangsters.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1CHkk-2RUWsVOIU0hLSasu4YTrrtikL0C8LU012jQ4k6Mz-XrfQ4_dHLZMTcpjK772fgMOJCupo9pKd1-UHNosFRSuZMb5kvn7dximBtI5TlpBHMJjd5j_gxs2a6xp12u1uThnbQIEE0/s1600/23.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 251px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1CHkk-2RUWsVOIU0hLSasu4YTrrtikL0C8LU012jQ4k6Mz-XrfQ4_dHLZMTcpjK772fgMOJCupo9pKd1-UHNosFRSuZMb5kvn7dximBtI5TlpBHMJjd5j_gxs2a6xp12u1uThnbQIEE0/s400/23.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599701136697161682" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpvuuDPt3TbaJeORG3J3P2o8eui2PbYQDgERGi8mCQ9YMXMUBD4Mka9don8DuT0UgWFj4Ig-nTWUMHW7O6qY5-nNFBlXgxZJdZVpcG2eyWUEhf7sHN8a90aHE6PtDMKhCwkAzWSe7gZ7A/s1600/24.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 193px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpvuuDPt3TbaJeORG3J3P2o8eui2PbYQDgERGi8mCQ9YMXMUBD4Mka9don8DuT0UgWFj4Ig-nTWUMHW7O6qY5-nNFBlXgxZJdZVpcG2eyWUEhf7sHN8a90aHE6PtDMKhCwkAzWSe7gZ7A/s400/24.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599701132281254130" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above the character transformation of Working Girl shows the lead from secretary to corporate leader. Below postmodern characterization uses film references with Anna Karina and Bruce Lee influencing the costumes.<br /></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR8gb7ILxircIRX-VkaYDycMGx3uNAIrD3JB96RFn5BGFkHg9F2jF1_j10-52o8-wwvkGTIw8se6bR91r6dL_yZWGUK97C-xAw52afEV_0Da3TtZnlrbLmrKfiy2JnSARWUu1xEkUPBJs/s1600/25.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 308px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR8gb7ILxircIRX-VkaYDycMGx3uNAIrD3JB96RFn5BGFkHg9F2jF1_j10-52o8-wwvkGTIw8se6bR91r6dL_yZWGUK97C-xAw52afEV_0Da3TtZnlrbLmrKfiy2JnSARWUu1xEkUPBJs/s400/25.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599700579853192114" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitR1maw_PksXbt0XIADpXi5knavBBWBW-eA8qHLq57gmpWtLbja98HkIJAQIaJMgdGD2u6DqJxDS7x9MS7ysBMOQSAjrGHtTWT2XOMi8frn8D3pJ2393SNz-LM54ZWmL_rhc0E0WkWC74/s1600/26.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 177px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitR1maw_PksXbt0XIADpXi5knavBBWBW-eA8qHLq57gmpWtLbja98HkIJAQIaJMgdGD2u6DqJxDS7x9MS7ysBMOQSAjrGHtTWT2XOMi8frn8D3pJ2393SNz-LM54ZWmL_rhc0E0WkWC74/s400/26.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599700574251774370" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above and below Coco Chanel's work in film. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 20px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above left her work on </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Tonight or Never</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">, 1930 and right</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">L</span></span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">'année dernière à Marienbad</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">,</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> 1961. Below her last film work was Boccaccio 72, 1962.</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIC-0t3pU_G2e2-22XFlKrChWIg2Pmif1bqmP2Myu-v9EHvcLGbvxzmDtzzPoHTt4Ocje5Wd9P_45zUfSTp6OOz33-g7P6W-N-qOKUHwsrbebArHr8U2to-qJxuQDdUVgBUgCY8o7rRCg/s1600/27.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIC-0t3pU_G2e2-22XFlKrChWIg2Pmif1bqmP2Myu-v9EHvcLGbvxzmDtzzPoHTt4Ocje5Wd9P_45zUfSTp6OOz33-g7P6W-N-qOKUHwsrbebArHr8U2to-qJxuQDdUVgBUgCY8o7rRCg/s400/27.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599700570929452418" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj4rkmqO_hWGQgS8JId-dIj-_6EsNPYAgrLfq3nv8-alA8hbXi08NWrooi8UiryOZhTwutOEpp8oWt0waunotejdopARto65GfvpDjDFljbZYqzbMQuBjUsNxPy5VZGcWxwPiVOaiNsVI/s1600/29.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 287px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj4rkmqO_hWGQgS8JId-dIj-_6EsNPYAgrLfq3nv8-alA8hbXi08NWrooi8UiryOZhTwutOEpp8oWt0waunotejdopARto65GfvpDjDFljbZYqzbMQuBjUsNxPy5VZGcWxwPiVOaiNsVI/s400/29.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599700561118338866" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above and below Belle du Jour, 1968 designed by YSL. The costumes were conservative and slightly seductive, to suggest a subtle empowerment for women of the era.<br /></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb-toXyt6Cp0h6yMsnS9roZbnSn6UNz-oB83NLMY4q1unrbwzZCjllCYsxr3tugChpeIQoWgoSzE_VxBgEcTwb9y6YOA101ywfCElpcpyvuXjvqu1h4DtoSG89MnFOj06UrntZV-4FWxc/s1600/30.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 265px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb-toXyt6Cp0h6yMsnS9roZbnSn6UNz-oB83NLMY4q1unrbwzZCjllCYsxr3tugChpeIQoWgoSzE_VxBgEcTwb9y6YOA101ywfCElpcpyvuXjvqu1h4DtoSG89MnFOj06UrntZV-4FWxc/s400/30.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599699877761745842" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrgb7qiOgw251woVY8_lEFn4Bg6Edf928IyYex5B5l89RdRgQBTw-GvW_t3Ggbf6ZsmdCwmivjs6XCppn-lQUOR96h4LvGQxhoELM0-pK4RGXGZxFpp1_0Nw82KkxGf7xcp1IiECVrUIg/s1600/31.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrgb7qiOgw251woVY8_lEFn4Bg6Edf928IyYex5B5l89RdRgQBTw-GvW_t3Ggbf6ZsmdCwmivjs6XCppn-lQUOR96h4LvGQxhoELM0-pK4RGXGZxFpp1_0Nw82KkxGf7xcp1IiECVrUIg/s400/31.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599699867083023378" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above looks from Belle du Jour and below another Deneuve YSL collaboration for La Chamade. 1968. In the case below she leaves her aristocratic lifestyle and closet for a more sedate world.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5upaoKsnRedvKEJoe5K8L6B27UUx49vynVgaAmYgsG6_lco8gZlvGHLfipVYPqKFYC9EUr-24qUyUoucY9h-oQN15MfGePNDAjAFjp8LQ9sONNzSf8UUT0uKDX2_q-qcFrPORPGxadFY/s1600/34_chamade+68.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 193px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5upaoKsnRedvKEJoe5K8L6B27UUx49vynVgaAmYgsG6_lco8gZlvGHLfipVYPqKFYC9EUr-24qUyUoucY9h-oQN15MfGePNDAjAFjp8LQ9sONNzSf8UUT0uKDX2_q-qcFrPORPGxadFY/s400/34_chamade+68.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599699861442813938" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAssN4_4SyTbhKkLRhPkuL2gGke9z4H8PGNLZjDWNmAsf9FAUPQuQ6Fr9poPINdOGCywtyRFqLFsAS6HtiBNKjtTNhN-yUs2IDUuJNZ9iiRcQ8zTBz18dfpRzjrR8biLbF4Do0i5k_Wd0/s1600/35.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 145px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAssN4_4SyTbhKkLRhPkuL2gGke9z4H8PGNLZjDWNmAsf9FAUPQuQ6Fr9poPINdOGCywtyRFqLFsAS6HtiBNKjtTNhN-yUs2IDUuJNZ9iiRcQ8zTBz18dfpRzjrR8biLbF4Do0i5k_Wd0/s400/35.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599699859859216450" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Above Gaultier's work for A Cook, a Thief a Wife and Her Lover and below Pret-a-Porter featuring a variety of designers by Robert Altman.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUHBNXY4BM1MRx6Ai1upXzLmQPUN0_PajDhZXBeN7Al2QBGxwCs3lN0E9Erp9OHv9DSgGY6tc-99p2G4lWxtbAQdOoLhSD107rv5GNPET5hpbcvsZuv0ecqKSI-dxMNCW77E7WhSSsXhs/s1600/36.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 238px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUHBNXY4BM1MRx6Ai1upXzLmQPUN0_PajDhZXBeN7Al2QBGxwCs3lN0E9Erp9OHv9DSgGY6tc-99p2G4lWxtbAQdOoLhSD107rv5GNPET5hpbcvsZuv0ecqKSI-dxMNCW77E7WhSSsXhs/s400/36.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599699856695008786" /></a><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div></div></div></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">See more of fashion & film <a href="http://www.fashionfilmstudies.blogspot.com/">here</a></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-24073335074360271822011-04-26T02:52:00.000-07:002011-04-27T05:06:31.729-07:00Film Costume: Heathers (1989)<style>@font-face { font-family: "Times New Roman"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }table.MsoNormalTable { font-size: 10pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">By Chelsea Turner</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0iC5vh3W0zLxhrqoHywFi2CighcohA-gtLT_y2sb4ZVjNId6s8C9qYhC8lq6zFzrCNKSO_EkcI64mCzm_OAWN2QYHndzREWBY1hhyphenhypheni-QnTyckWW09mwuBXcItfKLGGI2pOuIbi6ugrLM/s1600/heathers-opening-300x168.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 112px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0iC5vh3W0zLxhrqoHywFi2CighcohA-gtLT_y2sb4ZVjNId6s8C9qYhC8lq6zFzrCNKSO_EkcI64mCzm_OAWN2QYHndzREWBY1hhyphenhypheni-QnTyckWW09mwuBXcItfKLGGI2pOuIbi6ugrLM/s200/heathers-opening-300x168.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599828200483996786" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKnna2dHFYSQZYueCBoHb8NOx9bTmrpl1N7bRTPvmj_znFfocsGkUSN2vLEN4XBYxnAsFeNr8kFSG2hY44fBRQH5mf2w5Um2fDl6HgklqDGFgKlIO52XbP1aoQ_mE25O71qy8DCMA9O-I/s1600/heathers.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 136px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKnna2dHFYSQZYueCBoHb8NOx9bTmrpl1N7bRTPvmj_znFfocsGkUSN2vLEN4XBYxnAsFeNr8kFSG2hY44fBRQH5mf2w5Um2fDl6HgklqDGFgKlIO52XbP1aoQ_mE25O71qy8DCMA9O-I/s200/heathers.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599828284769947874" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal"> </p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Heather Chandler’s costume of a power shoulder blazer, red shorts over white tights, crisp white blouse with broach closure and her iconic red scrunchie are iconic in this movie.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The first time we see Heather at her ruling ground of Westerburg High in her powerful clique.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Her on trend (at the time) and loud jacket communicate her authority and influence, not only over the less loudly dressed students but also over the other 2 Heathers and Veronica.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The traditionally business plaid and double breasted style are also reminiscent of a forceful business man.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Her red scrunchie and skirt is the symbol of her leadership status, as she states during a croquet match later that day, “I’m always red.”</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Later in the film, Heather Duke takes the same red schunchie and wears it, making the statement that she is now the most powerful Heather.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-22853116731974512192011-04-26T01:42:00.001-07:002011-04-27T05:04:03.182-07:00Film Costume: Cleopatra (1963)<div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">By Isabella Aballi</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9v83oRKsd8G61W55_NiDAv4N4iIHgVz06QOCNaTjl9HGTVfOPJkW-ffZ1kgEd6megO0qtyTgkQPeHCmA1sQwKc6tRmLE0yQFvs_S9tOTXBL2AeR5FMz23qboQkNtGPxT7_HGeZ-qxjn8/s1600/Cleopatra-Elizabeth-Taylor-20th-Cent-Fox-1963sm-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 134px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9v83oRKsd8G61W55_NiDAv4N4iIHgVz06QOCNaTjl9HGTVfOPJkW-ffZ1kgEd6megO0qtyTgkQPeHCmA1sQwKc6tRmLE0yQFvs_S9tOTXBL2AeR5FMz23qboQkNtGPxT7_HGeZ-qxjn8/s200/Cleopatra-Elizabeth-Taylor-20th-Cent-Fox-1963sm-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599813856698193474" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Probably one of the most influential costumes ever to be placed in a film is Elizabeth Taylor's, Cleopatra. The historical epic directed by Joseph L. Mank</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">iewicz and released in 1963 gave way to an iconic costume that would influence fashion for the many years to come. What is so influential about Elizabeth Taylor's representation of the Roman queen after Caesar's reign is that is affects not only fashion in the clothing sense but also in the category of accessories and makeup. There is no doubt that Egyptian inspired snake rings and arms cuffs are all in response to the costume that was presented in this 1963 epic.</span></span><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 160px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMYKBCifFKA7oND4bwJB4ajgEbgkVrqRDp_1xLo_LG9EdytCtg40IbskK8TOwKZNTFLC1GrI4e9-Rx8X0HxPfPjLeetjTBbPu_y7Gah4SbmxvLitBtuzt2_1FFPUsbarwjmQaxiBcVF_I/s200/Elizabeth-Taylor-in-Cleopatra-elizabeth-taylor-7280058-304-380.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599813854006034402" /><div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The gold jewelry and long maxi dresses with embelishments are still seen today in fashion igniting the image of an Egyptian woman (Cleopatra) or Roman goddess. The last element of Cleopatra's influence is the eye makeup. When women buy eye liner and mascara and eye shadows, the aim is to give the illusion of large rounded eyes which are a key aspect of Cleopatra's beauty. The long cat eyed lining around the eyes is a famous image that follows Cleopatra and is instantly ignited in woman's minds when concerned with eye makeup. Elizabeth Taylor's Cleopatra costume is probably one of the most influential costume to ever be put on screen and follows women in every aspect of fashion.</span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 120px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSd_LylzhsLd7s6fUtrfZdMUj4ts5EdLILibhu46Kcp54BWoFzpytywv5_FI-I2OnlWDLqPjG4n3vxq7nmFpG8BEkMYXzuguDRx0rhT4Edg2bwNi8l5ahK5zkaBYMsNJi1cAaMXZbKEgs/s200/Elizabeth+Taylor+in+Cleopatra.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599813857096405122" /></div><div><br /></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-21140362838478719722011-04-26T01:16:00.000-07:002011-04-27T05:03:19.786-07:00H&M Designer Collaborations<div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia; font-size: small; ">By Isabella Aballi</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia; font-size: small; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">In studying the democratization of fashion, the emergence of high street fashion and "masstige" are current day contributors to it.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 32px; "><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> There is an increasing ability to redefine the meaning and image of </span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 32px; "><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">luxury</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">.</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> The fashion industry has developed the power to redefine luxury by creating a whole different branch of fashion: “new luxury</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">.</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">” New Luxury is what results from high fashion luxury brands extending their companies to a wider consumer base through different strategies</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">,</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> the most effective one being: brand collabor</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 32px; "><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">ations </span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 32px; "><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">(</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Ginman</span></span><span style="color:#1F1F1F;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">)</span></span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">.</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 32px; "><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Through the examination of H&M</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">’</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">s designer collaborations</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">,</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> it becomes clear how the fashion industry</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">,</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> and specifically H&M as a brand</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">,</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> is attempting and successfully achieving to break from the high street branch of fashion and transcending into the realm of luxury fashion during the circulation of these collections while still maintaining their previous brand image that categorizes them as either high fashion or high street fashion</span></span></span><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">.</span></span></span></span></div></div><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 140px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqOEMbmK_q93bYXAqZIuuScL_x-bQrlDjpWlNK_fEJ7cLGSyrz019yerIOzV6QTmrU1oEHguJcLEUWh5uuOJi01InCk2dJ6s-oojksOz3kAWARlm-D-yeJZ1EaaFDjFdlLsN_hLmE5Ss0/s200/rc_0.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599806674460472642" /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#1F1F1F;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 32px; "><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">While discussing the reproduction of fashion for the </span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(31, 31, 31); line-height: 32px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">masses in the w</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(31, 31, 31); line-height: 32px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">ay H&M does, Benjamin offers insight into the destruction of the aura. According to Benjamin once an art work is reproduced for the masses it loses its aura. However, these designer collaborations present much more than an aura to its audience. Through H&M's designer collaborations with designers like Lanvin, Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney, it allows the consumer to access brands that he/she would not normally purchase whether it be foe economic reasons or disinterest and hesitation.</span></span></span></div><img style="text-align: left;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 160px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2IzkI8CrRlAHSQZwaZAknVejTeSZU5EhQyq2A_xJnoI9BfkH7xpeYy7WKGMbErdVeaOaaq5ko3Ecd1PbQlG1ag7Yh3uBAL_eHXMRchaCKnJ60-psnKDvJ4lF8ox-3Hzc96D2tH9Mj_Mc/s200/6a00e54f05e1bb88340133f377a2f3970b-700wi.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599808406497650386" /><img style="text-align: left;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 164px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwWadzjJDh79hlAa9_kZRXlcqJJyIby6tIgRXiD-nbaJYnvgFdEaGsGUydrxdj4KKuR-Wwa2mAYMuiyUTSVOxKZBY7A0C1lyLK288vqocipmQeIFMghIzp7J2iy5wSZ8zmD95I_7KrjM/s200/lanvin2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599808400623780066" /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#1F1F1F;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 32px;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The reason why the designer collaborations are so successful for both H&M and the luxury brand is because the collection only happens once a year available for a limited amount of time and a designer is never repeated. The designer never fully attaches itself to the name H&M and therefore never loses the exclusive brand image that it has developed over the years. The collaboration generate attention to the brand and show its ability to appeal to the greater audience. </span></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#1F1F1F;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 32px;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">There is no doubt however that the major beneficiary of these collaborations is H&M. H&M is a global retailer known for its well priced fashion conscious clothing lines and when it collaborates for an annual collection with a luxury brand, the name of the brand itself is what gives H&M a temporary step up in the fashion world. Suddenly consumer that purchase products from luxury brands are willing to buy at H&M and consumers that buy at H&M on a regular basis can finally associate with luxury fashion.</span></span></span></span></div><div><div><div><!--StartFragment--><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:.25in;text-align:justify;text-indent: 48.0pt;line-height:200%;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none; text-autospace:none"><span style="line-height: 200%; color: rgb(31, 31, 31); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></p> <!--EndFragment--> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 32px; "><span style="font-size:13.0pt;mso-bidi-line-height:200%;Times New Roman";font-family:";font-size:16.0pt;color:#1F1F1F;"><br /></span></span></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-11338611817354901352011-04-26T00:45:00.000-07:002011-04-27T05:02:33.630-07:00The Rise of the Fashion Blogger: Actual Democratization of the Fashion Industry?<div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">- Barbara Leung</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 120px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS_KKT5323rLLPrXRkDFUaz_frhmrlChOkQXIuPEQilWMo2hCnXwJ9K16la2tS0q9Ea8j30l5x1LR0E6zwnBtN6RCUkTpg4GXY_UTj4DEFy40f4nzAJMvkgE1E9N3l2ct09wThfKnxBa0/s200/Bryan-Boy-Editors-Front-Row.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599800055918488658" /></div><div><!--StartFragment--> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Bryan Boy front and centre; image courtesy of fashionbombdaily.com</span></span></i></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">In the discussion of the democratization of fashion, one cannot help but immediately refer to the emergence and acceptance of bloggers in the main current of the fashion industry. Blogs, in general, simply serve as an online format to communicate and present ideas, and have been on the rise of creation since 2005, with over 80 000 created per day during that time (Cantone). This insurgence of blogs has unveiled not only a subculture, but also hierarchical disruption in information dissemination and a new level of visual vicarious consumption. All of which leads to the question as to whether or not the fashion industry has been democratized, and has it been with the aid of the fashion blog.</span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:justify;text-justify:inter-ideograph"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:justify;text-justify:inter-ideograph"><span lang="EN-CA"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The discussion of subculture leads back to the early work of British media theorist Dick Hebdige. It is not so much the actual subculture that is of interest, but rather, the incorporation/recuperation of the fashion blog subculture into the hegemonic culture. Recuperated in both commodity and ideological senses, the fashion blog has become a prevalent part of the press circle. Examples recall famed blogger Bryan Grey-Yambao of Bryan Boy quickly ushered to his seat with minutes to go until the start of the AW11 Costume National show.</span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:justify;text-justify:inter-ideograph"><span lang="EN-CA"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-CA"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiykh2wMpzT0g8I3dChB4BJ_VinaBw2jwETHqJTDG49xW3d6Q5cLttQp3Er-v9Ol2R2JVawEqul12mQJMSumPtiAcsGLt0M3XDj1GMRccbxxEWBIMBgMaBk60MAGy0Dms2zxrty5w-krO0/s200/Screen+shot+2011-04-26+at+9.41.06+AM.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599800402333504050" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 127px; " /></span></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Example of a street-style blog, The Sartorialist; image courtesy of http://thesartorialist.com</span></span></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">It is not to say that the recuperation has no results or effects on society. Vicarious consumption, as proposed by Veblen in the early 20</span></span><sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">th</span></span></sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> century, has been reformed in this context so as to include the age of the Internet. Visual consumption of the more leisurely and “in-crowd’s” experiences is possible what with photos from street style and meme blogs. But it is with this new form of visual vicarious consumption that a disruption of the hierarchy of information dissemination has occurred. Where the line of communication was once clear, from designer to journalist to consumer, it is now convoluted with the addition of the blogger who openly doubles as journalist and consumer. Recalling the example of Bryan Grey-Yambao being quickly ushered to his seat, it can be noted that Taylor Tomasi-Hill of Marie Claire arrived only minutes earlier but was only shown to a standing spot.</span></span></div> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:justify;text-justify:inter-ideograph"><span lang="EN-CA"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:justify;text-justify:inter-ideograph"><span lang="EN-CA"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The question of actual democratization can then be examined by taking a closer look and redefining the leisure/in-crowd. The fashion blogger can be included in the population of the higher middle class when noting slow return on investment in creating a popular online persona. Therefore, it is not a fair representation of everyone that participates in the consumerism component of the industry. But with that said, the blog platform has allowed for the participation of the average person through commenting, and the collaboration of bloggers and brands illustrates that the “more normal” person can earn a place in the industry.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-CA"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijycyMdkQGvtKn3I_HP3DALpwE95buMELWiFNkhH_qVvifMHuA6sGskvBkogfCZXq5ZRueGkTxszQbZqxptJxhceE55QyADnRWzAEeAx7oPfVCBl1dzvK_1gF5RHtNr3d8eguz4T48SQE/s1600/article-1357638-0D3CC5B3000005DC-108_306x481.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijycyMdkQGvtKn3I_HP3DALpwE95buMELWiFNkhH_qVvifMHuA6sGskvBkogfCZXq5ZRueGkTxszQbZqxptJxhceE55QyADnRWzAEeAx7oPfVCBl1dzvK_1gF5RHtNr3d8eguz4T48SQE/s200/article-1357638-0D3CC5B3000005DC-108_306x481.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599801071816156002" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 127px; height: 200px; " /></a></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">The public and bloggers expressed their disappointment with retailer Zara and their use of a fellow blogger's designs on their t-shirts, which resulted in the retail chain to pull the designs from the racks; image courtesy of </span></span></i><i><a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1357638/Zara-group-pulls-T-shirts-stores-fashion-bloggers-claim-designs-copied-images.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">DailyMail.co.uk</span></span></a></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1357638/Zara-group-pulls-T-shirts-stores-fashion-bloggers-claim-designs-copied-images.html"></a></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Amongst all of these observations, perhaps it is most important to state that the democratization of fashion has not truly been achieved. Admittedly, the rise of the fashion blogger amongst the ranks of industry has proved some sort of democratization. But the voice of the more common person is yet to be heard fully. The non-blogger can participate in democratization through commenting on entries; so it is best to say that the blog serves as an intermediary, as opposed to as a symbol of democratization of the industry.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div> <!--EndFragment--> </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-77026167537164610042011-04-25T23:32:00.001-07:002011-04-27T05:01:14.954-07:00Film Costume: American Psycho (2000)<div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">by Anne Grant</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 224px; height: 185px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnqOiOnTMutv32XfRD4uKApi6UKtYnj4xnJYhyphenhyphenHdwYyuJG5w1oSrFOeQw5KxPzBSMO_1hNpSjrSH_PxvXvFOzEKkvd15ptSAsQ64FELDD_TPwV29cTaWUI4JEXF0fZwvsAjZiUk73ifkE/s320/images.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599776884763336370" /></div><div><!--StartFragment--> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Patrick Bateman (Christian Bale), the protagonist of Mary Harron’s 2000 film adaptation of American Psycho, charmed both women and men with his lifestyle, good looks and sleek wardrobe. Bateman obsesses over his appearance, as made evident in his voice-overs throughout the film. In the iconic “raincoat scene,” Bateman slaughters his business acquaintance, Paul Allen, with an axe:</span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0000288/"><b><span style="color:windowtext;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Patrick</span></span></span></b><b><span style="color:#0057A5;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></span></b><b><u><span style="mso-bidi-text-underline: #0057A5;text-decoration:none;text-underline:nonecolor:windowtext;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Bateman</span></span></span></u></b></a><span style=" color: rgb(38, 38, 38); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">: Paul Allen has mistaken me for this dickhead Marcus Halberstram. It seems logical because Marcus also works at P&P and in fact </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">does</span></span></span></span><span style=" color: rgb(38, 38, 38); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> the same exact thing I do and he also has a penchant for Valentino </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">suits</span></span></span></span><span style=" color: rgb(38, 38, 38); "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> and Oliver Peoples glasses. Marcus and I even go to the same barber, although I have a slightly better haircut.</span></span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Resolute to stay up-to-date with the latest trends and scrupulous with his presentation, Bateman embodies the consumerist 1980s Wall Street man. Though his actions are monstrous, he manages to look good—even when soaked in Allen’s blood. His wardrobe—the Valentino suit—is a classic symbol of male authority. The designer label adds further value to the symbol. Bateman, though psychotic, also seems to act independent of any higher authority. His apparel, then, reflect his self-perceived untouchable status. </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><br /></span></p> <!--EndFragment--> </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-44651260653493517742011-04-25T20:35:00.000-07:002011-04-27T05:00:38.288-07:00Film Costume: Napoleon Dynamite (2004)By Nicolle D'Onofrio<div><br /><a href="http://elfanews.info/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/napoleon-dynamite.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 600px; height: 400px;" src="http://elfanews.info/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/napoleon-dynamite.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: left;">In the film Napoleon Dynamite, the main character Napoleon truly marches to the beat of his own drum. An unconcerned outcast, Napoleon's fashion consists of jeans and a graphic t-shirt featuring various mythological creatures. Wearing this "Vote for Pedro" t-shirt, Napoleon is standing up to the popular kids by supporting his equally outcasted friend, Pedro, in the run for class president. This t-shirt empowers Napoleon not only as a symbol of rebellion against the cool-crowd, but also as a symbol of solidarity. It is much easier for two pariah's to stand up to a bully than one, even if that bully seems to be the entire student body. Wearing this t-shirt, Napoleon shows his support for Pedro and feels empowered by this solidarity enough to do a final dance on Pedro's behalf in front of the entire student body. This costume represents the democratization of fashion by allowing even the most atypial character to express himself through fashion.<br /></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-33807566068732423432011-04-25T17:49:00.000-07:002011-04-25T18:47:58.786-07:00Film Costume: Do The Right Thing (1989)<div>by Michelle Marques </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPV1w1nNgu_NozkUPg9z9czFUw4d9HW0gs3P5V3n40oxO1_DOgVsTUEfXcIVuLrARSJxU5wLF_gKx-CrTsOISnKG0amqyabCQDcl6M1BoqR1I4DZ1c_Soyi4y4r6s2H6Fu2hQv7tkBv08/s1600/tumblr_lednz1yqpZ1qa934fo1_500.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 265px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPV1w1nNgu_NozkUPg9z9czFUw4d9HW0gs3P5V3n40oxO1_DOgVsTUEfXcIVuLrARSJxU5wLF_gKx-CrTsOISnKG0amqyabCQDcl6M1BoqR1I4DZ1c_Soyi4y4r6s2H6Fu2hQv7tkBv08/s400/tumblr_lednz1yqpZ1qa934fo1_500.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599689586589261298" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRWPQVFg7U-6g-ZLWlrX_-QlOX3_qaicZSNzorwhxQEM6vt7RtjOoO0yEUHQ-VOW5vVR7N0JuoKNkHARsuwrGyS9WbXHnnW-fUPgOS4CgAP8J6fRwMQ0WJCECqPt9ZDoctBzhb58zVm1U/s1600/radio_raheem-radio.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 312px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRWPQVFg7U-6g-ZLWlrX_-QlOX3_qaicZSNzorwhxQEM6vt7RtjOoO0yEUHQ-VOW5vVR7N0JuoKNkHARsuwrGyS9WbXHnnW-fUPgOS4CgAP8J6fRwMQ0WJCECqPt9ZDoctBzhb58zVm1U/s400/radio_raheem-radio.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599689052165909890" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWi3qrTD0V85UlEvPfooFTPFIMTMFOMQmUITMNOKIpAQrrJiRB-pofqP4Dc0kr4n3r-6tV1tpc6mMgQrsOMb8KTcoB7CQ1-kQL5ZV16E6-UA5NoovFfnpylgrr5cAE0AKTAVyL7vo95uw/s1600/radioraheemlovehatesmaller.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 248px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWi3qrTD0V85UlEvPfooFTPFIMTMFOMQmUITMNOKIpAQrrJiRB-pofqP4Dc0kr4n3r-6tV1tpc6mMgQrsOMb8KTcoB7CQ1-kQL5ZV16E6-UA5NoovFfnpylgrr5cAE0AKTAVyL7vo95uw/s400/radioraheemlovehatesmaller.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599689056922842866" /></a>Radio Raheem is an iconic character in Spike Lee's <i>Do The Right Thing.</i> His character in the film is a symbol of Black pride as racial tension<i>s </i>continue to mount during a sweltering summer<i> </i>in Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn. Radio Raheem is never seen without his trademark "Bed-Stuy, Do or Die" t-shirt, "Love and Hate" four finger rings, African pendant, and oversized boom box. <div><br /></div><div> Radio Raheem's t-shirt and African pendant represents his unwavering pride for his hometown of Bed-Stuy and his African roots. This pride can be seen as he acts as a revolutionary in his neighborhood by protesting the lack of Black faces on the "Wall of Fame" at Sal's Famous Pizza. In the film, Radio Raheem uses his rings as a metaphor of the continuous struggle between Love and Hate in life. His rings also reflect his own inner struggle between the love he has for his neighborhood and black heritage and the hate he feels towards the racism of Sal, an Italian-American, and his sons. Radio Raheem's look is not complete without his oversized boom box that constantly blasts "Fight the Power" by Public Enemy. </div><div><br /></div><div>As he walks through Bed-Stuy blasting this prophetic anthem Radio Raheem is the voice of African Americans who are tired of remaining silent in the face of discrimination. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-77399978023717044192011-04-25T16:14:00.000-07:002011-04-25T19:23:43.422-07:00Film Costume: Atonement: The Green Dress<div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjBNCkwHN6d6joUhhME3i3nk3_pn4Dyp2dRIdeUKcRFZtdAZvMGviGh8CakqWRwCPm4ai9j34Wkmr8hHAj-Fd6xqVKfqpCVM9GC1P4wh8nRTXlv6wIfzbfxlOpmBqDgi8slE7URtMOyB4/s1600/green12.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjBNCkwHN6d6joUhhME3i3nk3_pn4Dyp2dRIdeUKcRFZtdAZvMGviGh8CakqWRwCPm4ai9j34Wkmr8hHAj-Fd6xqVKfqpCVM9GC1P4wh8nRTXlv6wIfzbfxlOpmBqDgi8slE7URtMOyB4/s400/green12.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599665654005735938" /></a><br />In the 2007 movie Atonement, each costume was carefully designed to not only embody the character’s personality, but also the period of the 1930s-1940’s in which the majority of the film takes place. The costume designer Jacqueline Durran designed all the costumes for Atonement as well as for the film Pride and Prejudice, and she was nominated for an Academy Award for both films. The most infamous costume from Atonement is the emerald green dress that Keira Knightly so elegantly wears close to the start of the film. The color, the style and the fit are all important in order to portray Keira Knigtleys character and perhaps foreshadow later changes in the film. It is important that the viewer remembers this dress, because it is the dress Cecilia Tallis wears the night her entire life changes along with the tone of the film. The emerald green color is striking, and the green and silk evoke connotations of wealth and aristocracy. One of the many theories is that the green also reflects the envy that her sister Bryony Tallis has at the start of the film. Durran also said she chose the color because green symbolizes temptation which is a major theme throughout the film, especially during the events that take place while she wears the dress. This is the last time that we see Cecilia Tallis wear a dress that is as youthful, vibrant, sexy, and elegant. It reflects the character’s transformation from a naïve “child” to a an adult. Durran states: "instead of being constructed around Keira's body, the dress skimmed her [frame] and added to a feeling of semi-nakedness." This dress further evokes the ideas of temptation, youthfulness, playfulness, and sexiness all while remaining completely elegant. The costume also reflects the time period as seen in the slim fit, low back and long train. These were all characteristics commonly seen in dresses during this period. This is an example of how one costume can reflect a wealth of information about a character and further enhance the writer and the director’s vision.<br /><br />http://www.costumersguide.com/cr_atonement.shtml<div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-80071298489513298392011-04-25T15:56:00.001-07:002011-04-25T16:09:53.749-07:00Film Costume: Reno 911!: Miami (2007)By Jenn Liu<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuV2aeypdfjEzJFEqv_YUBAWiD_GkFSRUB7ESFhM-wCyh7OPvm2PzszuOr9UcjfpSobE9XCnvtmeRL5I1DviHUcHLr3xcoIMiwhOHDBWsRJkIZjJWZKHjmLhxHWANhasXvBbXphUK7th0/s1600/reno-dangle.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 245px; height: 365px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuV2aeypdfjEzJFEqv_YUBAWiD_GkFSRUB7ESFhM-wCyh7OPvm2PzszuOr9UcjfpSobE9XCnvtmeRL5I1DviHUcHLr3xcoIMiwhOHDBWsRJkIZjJWZKHjmLhxHWANhasXvBbXphUK7th0/s400/reno-dangle.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599659081525656866" /></a><br />The costume for Lieutenant Jim Dangle, designed by Mary Ann Bozek, takes a modern day police uniform and plays with the traditional codes of a policeman’s outfit to alter the connotations that usually come with that symbol of authority. The Lieutenant still holds serious symbols of authority through adornments like his badge and his accessories belt that holds weapons like his gun, however, other aspects of his uniform are changed to reflect his character. The most obvious differentiation from a traditional uniform is his pants. Opposed to the usual long trouser, he wears extremely short and tight shorts that add a blatant comedic effect on his character as well as questions his sexuality more immediately than other the characters’ would be. His shirt also has subtle differences like his rolled up sleeves, the opened collar as opposed to a fully buttoned up collar that would otherwise give his character a more stern look, and also the blue flaps on his shirt pockets that are bigger than the ones on his shoulders takes away from the shoulder area which takes away from a sense of masculinity that usually highlighting the shoulders does on an uniform. This less serious take of an officer’s uniform effectively communicates Lieutenant Jim Dangle’s character by illustrating him as a figure of authority but one that is not taken as seriously due to aspects of femininity that exude from his costume. The costume then in that sense, takes away from the character’s power. A police man is usually to be viewed as an authoritative and serious figure but his costume’s ridiculousness takes away from that instant power of authority associated with uniforms.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-59870502506111215432011-04-25T13:41:00.000-07:002011-05-01T15:08:49.762-07:00Case Study: DIY Fashion<div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">by: Christine Lee</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">DIY FASHION</span></span></b></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><a href="http://img3.visualizeus.com/thumbs/10/06/01/diy,fashion,zipper-2d0a52aaf933a160c506bd96678bfbea_h.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 233px;" src="http://img3.visualizeus.com/thumbs/10/06/01/diy,fashion,zipper-2d0a52aaf933a160c506bd96678bfbea_h.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">(</span></span><a href="http://img3.visualizeus.com/thumbs/10/06/01/diy,fashion,zipper-2d0a52aaf933a160c506bd96678bfbea_h.jpg"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">via</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">)</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Do-it-yourself </span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">is a term used to describe artistic efforts in which participants modify and/or create something, ranging from furniture to clothing. It is said to have emerged with the rise of the</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> punk movement </span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">in the 1970’s, in which came substantial cultural, social, and political change. The movement lead to the rise of </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">fanzines</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">. Stephen Duncombe describes fanzines as “little publications filled with rantings of high weirdness and exploding with chaotic design”, where producers “privilege the ethic of DIY, do-it-yourself: </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">make your own culture and stop consuming that which is made for you.</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">”</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><img src="http://content2.myyearbook.com/zenhex/images/quiz78/386691/386691_res1_oldschool.jpg" /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">(</span></span><a href="http://content2.myyearbook.com/zenhex/images/quiz78/386691/386691_res1_oldschool.jpg"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">via</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">)</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Another theory in which DIY emerged: DIY is also said to be linked to the Arts and Crafts movement of the 1900’s. This was an international design movement originated in England. This movement also spread to the United States and evolved as a “reaction against the impoverished state of the decorative arts and the conditions under which they were produced.” It emphasized </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">traditional craftsmanship as well as authentic material usage</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">. This movement also evolved as a simple cost-saving technique between the 1940’s and 1950’s.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent:.5in;line-height:normal"><a href="http://www.instructables.com/image/FSJ6ZB5FHEZCA9R/DIY-Vinyl-Wall-Art.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="http://www.instructables.com/image/FSJ6ZB5FHEZCA9R/DIY-Vinyl-Wall-Art.jpg" border="0" alt="" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 360px; height: 230px; " /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: normal; "><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">DIY vinyl wall art</span></span></i></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">(</span></span><a href="http://www.instructables.com/image/FSJ6ZB5FHEZCA9R/DIY-Vinyl-Wall-Art.jpg"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">via</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">)</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 18px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Regardless of the true origins, or multiple origins, of DIY, there is no denying that it is indeed a huge phenomenon in society, forgoing any class structures by being used in high fashion as well as in the general public.</span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;text-indent: 0.5in; line-height: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="line-height: 115%; "></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height:normal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Democratization of fashion</span></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height:normal"><span style=" line-height: 115%; "><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Democratization </span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">is the transition to a more democratic approach from an authoritarian regime. There are no rules. The authoritarian regime in this case would be the power players of the fashion industry who tell us what is in style, where to buy from, which designers are considered noteworthy, and more. Well, these authority figures are authority no more as the power belongs to the individual who now decides what he or she wants for himself or herself, through DIY fashion. </span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height:normal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Issey Miyake </span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">is one of the most innovative clothing designers today. In the mid-90’s, an experiment he started with Dai Fujiwara, a textile engineer and designer, turned into an fashion line in 1999 called A-POC. </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">A-POC</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">, standing for “</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">a piece of cloth</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">”, requires no sewing; the thread goes into the loom and the finished product comes out of the other side. The product is not limited to clothing but extends into accessories or even furniture. “This interactive new method not only reduces leftover fabric but also permits the wearers to participate in the final step of the design of their clothing: they determine the final shape of the product”. The wearers determine the final shape of the product giving </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">power to the individual</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">.</span></span></p></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/x4_mK9CebB4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></span></span></div><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></b></div><div><span style=" line-height: 115%; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Erica Domesek is the founder, creator, and author of </span></span><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">P.S. – I made this</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">…</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> a highly distinguished DIY website further showing the democratization of fashion and power to the individual. It gives readers ideas for DIY projects and even provides inspiration boards for readers to come up with their own ideas. It also has links to the best places to get materials for particular project</span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">s.</span></span></b></span></div><div><span style=" line-height: 115%; "><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style=" line-height: 115%; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><b></b></span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><img src="http://28.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lifi6oPhdD1qzymieo1_400.jpg" alt="The “Art of the Trench” is a beautiful thing. The trench coat is quite possibly one of the most classic staples that everyone should own. My friends, Hillary and Katherine of WHO WHAT WEAR, who have a new j’amazing book, “WHAT TO WEAR, WHERE”, agree that one of the most coveted pieces this spring hails from BURBERRY. Designer, Christopher Bailey, added a new spin on the iconic trench coat, giving us goosebumps with metallic accents to embellish. Severe and sexy spikes are certainly a Spring trend to steal (say that tongue twister!) Get inspired by Burberry, and create your own version. Reach for lots of chopsticks (use anywhere from 50-100 pairs or more if you crave more spike-age). Using a handsaw (carefully) and cut down chopsticks tops. If you don’t feel comfortable with a saw, try heavy duty clippers. In a well-ventilated area, spray paint the spikes, gold. Wait till dry, flip over- and spray to cover. Use chalk to outline where the spikes will go. Use droplets of hot glue on the bottoms of the spikes, place down- and hold for a few seconds till they set. Remove any straggly glue hair strands, let dry- and rock it! " /></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></b></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style=" line-height: 115%; "><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">(</span></span><a href="http://28.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lifi6oPhdD1qzymieo1_400.jpg"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">via</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">)</span></span></b></span></div><div><b style="line-height: 18px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></b></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">DIY as OPPOSITION TO FASHION - Deconstruction Fashion</span></span></b></div><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></b></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 18px; "><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Martin Margiela</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> was a leading proponent of deconstructionism: </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 18px; "><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Deconstruction </span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">itself is literally the “dismantling of clothes and embodiment of aestheticized non-functionality.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 18px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> He made dresses made of fabrics that did not match with the inside linings sewn on the outside bringing the “secrets” of the fashion’s “bewitching charms” to the surface. The jackets he made were also re-cut and re-sewn, details exposed. </span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvIbLaeyZUCJrCnkBS5nlwH27unp-8TSem5Wfia0rTCOtevJb7TQr2zCKfdYfOkCJ0bvO6fHOPnlP0oYzP0E9z4kTnOqdaIwsg9dAEQja0w0KXzhVAh78_xHYnBz81woI-6RyScMGQy3U/s1600/martin+margiela.jpg" /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">(</span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvIbLaeyZUCJrCnkBS5nlwH27unp-8TSem5Wfia0rTCOtevJb7TQr2zCKfdYfOkCJ0bvO6fHOPnlP0oYzP0E9z4kTnOqdaIwsg9dAEQja0w0KXzhVAh78_xHYnBz81woI-6RyScMGQy3U/s1600/martin+margiela.jpg"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">via</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">)</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 18px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> Another major proponent of it is to take an item that already exists to serve one purpose, deconstruct it, and assign it another purpose. </span></span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">E2</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" line-height: 18px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> makes customized pieces from vintage and recycled designer wear. Some of their pieces include a kimono pieced together from an old Cacharel blouse and a robe made from a number of Balenciaga scarves.</span></span></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><img src="http://www.tendances-de-mode.com/dotclear/img8/img-903.jpg" /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">(</span></span><a href="http://www.tendances-de-mode.com/dotclear/img8/img-903.jpg"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">via</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">)</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="line-height: 115%; "><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">Having emerged from a rather rebellious movement, the punk movement, DIY is </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">comparatively subdued</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">. Although it can be considered an opposition to fashion, it is not so much against fashion as it is a manipulation of fashion codes to fit the needs of the individual. This in turn </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">gives power to the individual </span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;">who controls every aspect of what he or she wears by personal creation. </span></span></span></div><div><span style="line-height:115%; font-family:"Times New Roman","serif";mso-fareast- mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-ansi-language:EN-US;mso-fareast-language: EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SAfont-family:Calibri;font-size:12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-32974363045834737432011-04-25T13:40:00.000-07:002011-04-25T15:58:41.424-07:00The Mad Hatter<div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSJEzQp_OIoM1KIH_W9D1AMvW87m50IFtASnHtDYB_5qLIBuYwb03aeakje6piT1q8cz8aIzT9KSFj0a86z5Ql477Zms0lqMGXy6SlRqjH5grdb6vWvuEnQNTPuvRHxHQz1TKx75rLp_Q/s1600/tim-burton-mad-hatter-costume-full-body-561x700.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 321px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSJEzQp_OIoM1KIH_W9D1AMvW87m50IFtASnHtDYB_5qLIBuYwb03aeakje6piT1q8cz8aIzT9KSFj0a86z5Ql477Zms0lqMGXy6SlRqjH5grdb6vWvuEnQNTPuvRHxHQz1TKx75rLp_Q/s400/tim-burton-mad-hatter-costume-full-body-561x700.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599629787289212402" border="0" /></a><br /><div>by Sofya Gladysheva<br />Johnny Depp's costume in Tim Burton's <leo_highlight style="border-bottom: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 150); background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%; cursor: pointer; display: inline; -moz-background-clip: -moz-initial; -moz-background-origin: -moz-initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: -moz-initial;" id="leoHighlights_Underline_0" leohighlights_keywords="alice in wonderland" leohighlights_url="http%3A//thebrowserhighlighter.com/leonardo/highlights/keywords?keywords%3Dalice%20in%20wonderland" onclick="leoHighlightsHandleClick('leoHighlights_Underline_0')" onmouseover="leoHighlightsHandleMouseOver('leoHighlights_Underline_0')" onmouseout="leoHighlightsHandleMouseOut('leoHighlights_Underline_0')">Alice in Wonderland</leo_highlight> was designed by Colleen Atwood, a prominent costume designer who was won several Academy Awards, one of which was for her work on this film. The costume elaborates on the Victorian fashion code by using bright accessories and outlandish makeup. One can imagine that a hatter of those time could wear something of the sort, but it is the unruliness as well as the hair and makeup that speak to the craziness associated with the character. His contacts are bright yellow with pupils pointing in different direction. His hair is bright orange and sticking out everywhere. He has a pink handkerchief and a silly bow tie. Clearly, his appearance does not scream sanity. It is these details that point to the absurdity of his character. He has a cast on his thumb, there are various pins and needles in his hat, his hands are splotchy, and his fingernails a grimy yellow. Whereas the Disney version simply looks goofy or a little off, Johnny Depp looks stark mad, if not inhuman, which fits with the fantastical genre of the film. Atwood elucidates that this is a fantasy world where anything goes.</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkZw-wjSUKtlOQtChfC8Pqp_TqXTVDMV-EFE_3OlKAM6WcfcqIvCrrjWZQJVBJ_8zaP0BiPHr0P-BIvO81sL_4joFfOeoOo8bCYXwWpVW9vyHc8wSnJp_Wnbp7pvVMTcM6kE9pYUOXq3Q/s1600/MadHatterDisney.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 192px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkZw-wjSUKtlOQtChfC8Pqp_TqXTVDMV-EFE_3OlKAM6WcfcqIvCrrjWZQJVBJ_8zaP0BiPHr0P-BIvO81sL_4joFfOeoOo8bCYXwWpVW9vyHc8wSnJp_Wnbp7pvVMTcM6kE9pYUOXq3Q/s200/MadHatterDisney.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599628426463924050" border="0" /></a><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input id="jsProxy" type="hidden" onclick="jsCall();"><div id="refHTML"></div><span id="leoHighlights_iframe_modal_span_container"><div 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</script></span></div><div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-66153406161131423102011-04-25T13:39:00.000-07:002011-04-25T15:58:14.044-07:00The Sartorialist: Scott Schuman's Role in the Democratization of FashionBy Anne Grant<div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP_dTVDpDFPhzbbkez0fqeY4_AoHGcNWruaRdoQUmWZtPfpwoEEyqvIOc3BJdxwBrZ9-c_nRfskJeqcLdBJsmr2zj0GCQTeOn5nymPsZEFNfqnrqPUBnyAur0Z0g4YZY2q9T2z4CgoFU8/s1600/sart.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 175px; height: 263px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP_dTVDpDFPhzbbkez0fqeY4_AoHGcNWruaRdoQUmWZtPfpwoEEyqvIOc3BJdxwBrZ9-c_nRfskJeqcLdBJsmr2zj0GCQTeOn5nymPsZEFNfqnrqPUBnyAur0Z0g4YZY2q9T2z4CgoFU8/s320/sart.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599625486422073698" /></a><br />In the fashion industry, the authoritative norm has long favored the regime and rule of designers and glossy magazine editors. However, over the past decade, the industry has shifted increasingly toward a web-based medium. The fashion blogosphere, wherein anyone with an internet connection has a voice, represents a mounting subculture primed to challenge the traditional modes of fashion media and mediation. Susie Khamis and Alex Munt posit that “influence and reach is no longer tied to top-level titles like Vogue, or earned through years of assistance and editing . . . Rather, (fashion bloggers) make their mark with voices that seem fresh and autonomous” (2-3).<br /><br />In short, the upsurge in number and influence of fashion bloggers has disrupted the hierarchy as previously seen in the fashion industry and, subsequently, revolutionized fashion media. In an act of self-preservation, the old regime has co-opted these new media strategies in an attempt to uphold its authority.<br /><br />Scott Schuman’s online photographic project, The Sartorialist, provides an example of the way in which such blogs have broadened the modes by which fashion is captured and conveyed. At the same time, this particular blog indicates a fusion with traditional fashion hierarchies and norms. Launched in September 2005, Schuman started The Sartorialist “simply to share photographs of people on the street that I thought looked great.”<br /><br />In the six years since his blog’s inception, Schuman has made a niche for himself in the gray area between photojournalism and fashion photography. As a blogger, Schuman has the ability to post images free from the filters of the traditional fashion system (e.g. editors, stylists, publicists, etc.). For example, his image “Not giving up, NYC” (August 2009)—which features a homeless man donning accessories in matching hues of blue—illustrates an image of beauty, style and fashion that are outside the bounds of industry—such a photograph would never appear in the pages of Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar.<br /><br />Not giving up, NYC (August 2009)</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfBoSTzx8rScjH54OfqMb_Ges7DoAUXYqU1uN_Sp2MMZvGpD8PghKT9MOCSDAahvLF0X-wRuveghAe3SeOBb6e1krYaCVK9hH5VG_CaKojBRH_3PTirfI836obq0FPrFyqmxHNnymg20k/s1600/BVBlueBlack11Web.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfBoSTzx8rScjH54OfqMb_Ges7DoAUXYqU1uN_Sp2MMZvGpD8PghKT9MOCSDAahvLF0X-wRuveghAe3SeOBb6e1krYaCVK9hH5VG_CaKojBRH_3PTirfI836obq0FPrFyqmxHNnymg20k/s320/BVBlueBlack11Web.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599624317080385106" /></a><br />Despite his efforts to remain autonomous to the industry, Schuman has been criticized for reinforcing the traditional fashion system. He has received commissions from numerous publications, he has appeared in ads for Gap, he has published a book, and he is regularly cited as a source of inspiration by prominent fashion designers. Consequently, the amateur photographer’s status as an “outsider” has undoubtedly been compromised.<br /><br />In reality, the majority of Schuman’s posts do not depict ordinary people; he has been photographing fashion insiders since the blog’s launch in 2005. Additionally, his work revolves around the collections, capturing images of the before and after outside tents housing glitzy runway shows. At the end of the day, it is Schuman’s judgment and discerning eye that reign supreme. He takes on the role of photographer, stylist and fashion editor and, thus, condenses the perspective to one that suits his particular tastes and preferences. As a result, Schuman’s subjects become a mere expression of his perception of what fashion should be. In this sense, The Sartorialist is not a manifestation of an alternative fashion press, but, rather, imitates the normative modes of fashion journalism.<br /><br />Young Girls of Williamsburg Run with the Marathoners (December 2005)</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDRKODyiwQHhVdepAXmy88FEjTQAbgCYGBESE66mLAReYcH6iBH-xnpErk5oljaz-iUfhVOtiASv2Fk0_69_-ZEGfaclKyLuFW9ykT5PR2nRUrvNkB0PazR76WIqCgMctZLpSmxOAxls/s1600/running2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 177px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsDRKODyiwQHhVdepAXmy88FEjTQAbgCYGBESE66mLAReYcH6iBH-xnpErk5oljaz-iUfhVOtiASv2Fk0_69_-ZEGfaclKyLuFW9ykT5PR2nRUrvNkB0PazR76WIqCgMctZLpSmxOAxls/s200/running2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599626072121538978" /></a><br />This photograph indicates the autonomy Schuman experiences as a blogger. He is free to play with the ambiguities between photojournalism and fashion photography. This image tilts toward the former rather than the latter.</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-90799477670284835972011-04-25T13:23:00.001-07:002011-04-25T13:24:29.376-07:00Film Costume: Rushmore (1998)by Emily Mann<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBx1Vq1BX_IMg9WlUntZDUNqhrsU0JxCMNllCekpf6vSp0ZgR7eBRSssZUjlDR9bCfX8dSKo6TTgpG46czXevOpM9SFZi-8cpYlLffsNLrJ-iHCow9b5VlC8kJbdPlzegb7ozTsJNyABA/s1600/screen-capture-2.png"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 352px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBx1Vq1BX_IMg9WlUntZDUNqhrsU0JxCMNllCekpf6vSp0ZgR7eBRSssZUjlDR9bCfX8dSKo6TTgpG46czXevOpM9SFZi-8cpYlLffsNLrJ-iHCow9b5VlC8kJbdPlzegb7ozTsJNyABA/s400/screen-capture-2.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599619625901830930" /></a><br /><br />In Wes Anderson’s film Rushmore, Jason Schwarzman plays Max Fischer, a tenacious and rebellious prep school student, raised by his working class father and struggling with the death of his mother. Max’s Rushmore Academy uniform, which was his costume for multiple scenes of the film, was designed by Karen Patch. It first and foremost instantly identifies Max as a student of the prestigious and affluent school, offering false implications of his family’s wealth and status in society. Max’s costume differs from those of the other students at Rushmore in that he wears every possible piece of adornment from pins on the lapel of his jacket to his perfectly matched maroon red beret. The costume corresponds with Max’s outwardly overachieving nature while simultaneously communicating his underlying social insecurities. By flaunting the school’s insignia and embracing (and embellishing) its posh image, Max gives off the perception of being wealthy and fitting in, when, in reality, his lack of those two things is one of his main struggles throughout the film. As the film progresses, we learn of Max’s insecurities about his upbringing as he lies about his father’s profession, claiming he is a neurosurgeon, when in reality, he is a barber. The juxtaposition between Max’s systematically polished look and his father’s simple work uniform further stresses Max’s use of his outfit as a way to manipulate his appearance so others perceive him as affluent and high society.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-76622861565441919952011-04-25T11:49:00.000-07:002011-04-25T12:27:54.585-07:00“Cinema and Haute Couture: Sabrina to Pretty Woman, Trop Belle pour Toi!, Prêt-à-Porter” Reading Summary- Barbara Leung<br /><br /><center><div style="width:340px" id="__ss_7730163"> <strong style="display:block;margin:12px 0 4px"><a href="http://www.slideshare.net/byleung/reading-summary-cinema-and-haute-couture-sabrina-to-pretty-woman-trop-belle-pour-toi-prtporter-7730163" title="Reading Summary: “Cinema and Haute Couture: Sabrina to Pretty Woman, Trop Belle pour Toi!, Prêt-à-Porter” ">Reading Summary: “Cinema and Haute Couture: Sabrina to Pretty Woman, Trop Belle pour Toi!, Prêt-à-Porter” </a></strong> <iframe src="http://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/embed_code/7730163" width="340" height="284" frameborder="0" marginwidth="0" marginheight="0" scrolling="no"></iframe> <div style="padding:5px 0 12px"> View more presentations from <a href="http://www.slideshare.net/byleung">Barbara Leung</a> </div> </div></center><br /><br />(Images can be found in the SlideShare presentation above, as well as brief recap)<br /><br />Published in 1997 by New York and London based company Routledge, “Cinema and Haute Couture: Sabrina to Pretty Woman, Trop Belle Pour Toi!, Prêt-à-Porter” is the first chapter in University of Warwick professor Stella Bruzzi’s book Undressing Cinema. Bruzzi currently holds the position of professor of film and television, and specializes in the research of fashion and costume, gender and identity in film, and documentary film and television.<br /><br />This chapter seeks to address the questions of exhibitionism and art (Bruzzi 8); the attempt to determine if clothes can and should perform a spectacular as opposed to a “subservient visual role in film” (Bruzzi 8), as well as if these costumes can and should remain functional intermediaries to narrative. While it is perhaps not seemingly clear if Bruzzi targets these questions with each example, there are certain passages worth highlighting and extracting from.<br /><br />The approach of the chapter is one that is analytical; taking into account the viewpoints of other authors, such as Roland Barthes and Peter Wollen. While there is the presentation of historical facts, it focuses mostly on the theory of presentation and identity.<br /><br />Distinguishing the old and new is necessary, as it is noted that clothing is prioritised over narrative (i.e. new), and that the traditional ethos (i.e. old) of costume design was meant as a means to create looks complementing the narrative, character, and stars (Bruzzi 3). The introduction of fashion into films provides an interesting look as to how it has since developed; the earliest films to feature fashion were what called “cinematic fashion shows,” in which the story lines were built around the display.<br /><br />Soon to change, however, was the significance of the costume designer, who was once considered to be the “dictator of fashion” (Bruzzi 5). The new relationship formed between stars and clothes, via the French couturier, could be observed through one of the best examples of the era, Sabrina. What resulted was the symbolic divergence between the roles of the costume designer and of the couturier; more specifically in this case, between Edith Head and Hubert Givenchy.<br /><br />It is not to say that the end of the costume designer was met with Sabrina. The circumstances in which the movie was given, lent itself more to the importance of the couturier. The relationship between identity and costume is something that must be clearly realized. According to Roland Barthes, there are three different structures with regards to fashion: technological, iconic, and verbal. To be clear, the term “iconic” refers to the idea that there is an independent and prior meaning.<br /><br />The discussion on costumes, though, does not only limit itself to women. Men, too, find themselves in this realm of discussion, although in a more recent frame. Where men were once expected to bring their own clothing to sets, the idea of fetishism opens with Richard Gere’s role in American Gigolo, and the focus on his clothing, which communicates identity and messages of male sexuality.<br /><br />While the films are somewhat outdated, there is still relevance in the article in terms of the theories and ideas presented.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-55323874031995411712011-04-25T08:16:00.000-07:002011-04-25T13:20:17.910-07:00Movie Costume: James T. Kirk in Star Trek<div><br /></div><a href="http://img.trekmovie.com/images/st09/trailer2analysis/thumbs/054.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 460px; height: 191px;" src="http://img.trekmovie.com/images/st09/trailer2analysis/thumbs/054.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />By Sophie Cheung<br /><br />Chris Pine plays the young James T. Kirk in the 2009 movie rendition of the classic American science fiction series, Star Trek. In the beginning part of the movie, Kirk is portrayed as the extremely intelligent but cocky and rebellious bad boy. The character's personality is given further emphasis through this scene (pictured above), where he's wearing the iconic black motorcycle leather jacket while he's--almost typically--riding his motorcycle down a road in his hometown in Iowa. The leather jacket received its notoriety through American and British youth in the late 1950s and 60s as well as pop culture films such as Brad Pitt in Fight Club and John Travolta in Grease. Additionally, in real life, those who are often associated with wearing the leather jacket are typically people who are perceived as either tough or rebellious, or both: bikers, military aviators, rock stars, punks, and police. They wear the leather jackets either for protection or intimidation purposes, but pop culture has helped propel and sustain the stereotype of leather jackets even further as going hand in hand with the rebellious image.<div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-70990477938677987442011-04-25T03:39:00.000-07:002011-04-25T13:19:45.564-07:00Film Costume: Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back (1980)<div>by Zo-Ee Chee</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3wEZHNenaXID55Wg94URVwQ6TEbzB4iIZc7HAZY5saVYjtAi_qAhZQ286Fbvxb-pYqAK31grNBvZkZ5Plxk3vKS8JxUktDYhKQG-2e1iMC9HLEIuBMEm-YARtvEpCYV92EgpfpSuCI8Q/s1600/luke+skywalker.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 125px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3wEZHNenaXID55Wg94URVwQ6TEbzB4iIZc7HAZY5saVYjtAi_qAhZQ286Fbvxb-pYqAK31grNBvZkZ5Plxk3vKS8JxUktDYhKQG-2e1iMC9HLEIuBMEm-YARtvEpCYV92EgpfpSuCI8Q/s320/luke+skywalker.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599473054253190226" /></a><div><br /></div><div>The costume of padawan (Jedi in training) Luke Skywalker was designed by John Mollo to reflect the principles of a knight of the Jedi Order. Also responsible for the iconic Darth Vader costume, Mollo crafted Skywalker's costume based on Japanese Gi (the standard karate uniform) and traditional Japanese clothing. These costumes were intended to reflect the outlook and Zen leanings of the Jedi Order who prefer resolution over conflict and violence, integrity and truth. Here, Skywalker's clothing is instead utilitarian, much like a Japanese peasant's from the late 19th century and allows for freedom of movement (running or fighting, whichever the case might be).The color is also significant as white connotes purity and goodness: an intentional polar opposite to Darth Vader's all black and militaristic costume.</div><div><br /></div><div>Here, power is communicated through an <b>opposition to fashion</b>. The look is relatively timeless, though rooted in a specific culture. Mollo rejected any trendy or fashionable item in order to let Skywalker and the Jedis look timeless. It may even be compared to "utilitarian outrage" as a standard form that does not undergo constant modification or "minority and faith groups" which choose to show certain principles through their clothing (in this case, simplicity). Also, as a standard Jedi uniform, power is communicated as their clothing becoming a identifiable as part of an institution and the larger Jedi order.</div><div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-33383818394275472822011-04-25T01:37:00.000-07:002011-04-25T13:20:39.606-07:00Film Costume: The Aviator (2004)<div>by: Shireen Cohen</div><div><div><div><div><br /></div><div>The Aviator tells the story of troubled film producer and aviator Howard Hughes mostly between the years 1920-1940. Part of the film focuses on the many romances of Hughes, which includes Hollywood magnates Katharine Hepburn, Ava Gardner and Jean Harlow. All three women were played in the movie, by current Hollywood magnates Cate Blanchett, Kate Beckinsale and Gwen Stefani, respectively.</div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSn7ZeFZllzL_Kmd_vn9bECJznika2WNRZFUq_8SgWhbS22FCxw1UHxOqNAb05lEpzH1et0pKMSnV5Z2mkBp5d-4qmPuhBX9IamTAKz9idu_tr2mXauZ1y-o-o_ZOfBlZ9n6vbIzgJTZ8/s1600/Cate+Blanchett+The+Aviator.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSn7ZeFZllzL_Kmd_vn9bECJznika2WNRZFUq_8SgWhbS22FCxw1UHxOqNAb05lEpzH1et0pKMSnV5Z2mkBp5d-4qmPuhBX9IamTAKz9idu_tr2mXauZ1y-o-o_ZOfBlZ9n6vbIzgJTZ8/s320/Cate+Blanchett+The+Aviator.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599446047234493954" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 208px; " /></a><br /><div>Cate Blanchett, who was nominated for Best Actress for her role, played the part of fashion icon Katharine Hepburn. Hepburn was credited for breaking the fashion dress code for women and instituting men's trousers are part of the dress code. Here, the actress is portrayed by Blanchett at a formal affair wearing a long, golden gown.</div></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJjm4owPApHAcD3wPDgERJo7qulhMGkx8RABj_uFEYn7NaScR4-8k3BZxPQ8sXrQNsSI1zPka-nR_bA6KPmKZwUbwonK4EFtVUN-g2mz7KNtZ6oxpbCkBshhWXe1hZrCeHOFagMD9jWro/s1600/kate_beckinsale9.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJjm4owPApHAcD3wPDgERJo7qulhMGkx8RABj_uFEYn7NaScR4-8k3BZxPQ8sXrQNsSI1zPka-nR_bA6KPmKZwUbwonK4EFtVUN-g2mz7KNtZ6oxpbCkBshhWXe1hZrCeHOFagMD9jWro/s320/kate_beckinsale9.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599449172351857282" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 229px; height: 320px; " /></a><div>The above image is a still on set of Kate Beckinsale playing famed American actress Ava Gardner. Here, Beckinsale wears a long colored gown with long satin red gloves and a fur shawl.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvbsI1tK34aFCRRJ93CDFtXholep7hDpcBGX-2M6NijJoM_1fH_Wlp5R3U7nn7gktu0MrtvsCp2WdW2lXEFd14xAO3BURMyoQzWWIsfeVZ9a1qRtU0xaQI3mjJbK58ANrk5jIv1eiTcMk/s1600/Gwen+Stefani+The+Aviator.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 227px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvbsI1tK34aFCRRJ93CDFtXholep7hDpcBGX-2M6NijJoM_1fH_Wlp5R3U7nn7gktu0MrtvsCp2WdW2lXEFd14xAO3BURMyoQzWWIsfeVZ9a1qRtU0xaQI3mjJbK58ANrk5jIv1eiTcMk/s320/Gwen+Stefani+The+Aviator.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599449978009259538" /></a>In the above image, Gwen Stefani, playing "blonde bombshell" American actress Jean Harlow goes to the premiere of Hell's Angels on the arm of Hughes, the film's producer. Here, Stefani wears a long silk gown, with a white fur shawl ornamented with orchids. <div><br /></div><div>All three images depict the simple elegance that was common at the time for formal affairs. Jean Powell, the films stylist, won the Oscar for Best Wardrobe for the film.</div><div><div><br /></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-49303781921653283412011-04-24T09:27:00.000-07:002011-04-24T11:56:12.379-07:00The Relationship Between Costume and Fashion Design<span style="font-family:georgia;">by Tamara Tucci</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Anna Wyckoff is a costume designer and illustrator who has worked on the films Fat Albert (2004), Chasing Papi (2003), and The Yellow Wallpaper (2011). She is a member of the Costume Designers Guild and she currently contributes several articles to the Guild website in which she analyzes the role of costume design in films and the success of certain costume designers in the Guild. The Costume Designers Guild is an alliance between Costume Designers, Assistant Costume Designers, and Costume Illustrators in television shows, films and commercials. Since 1953, the Guild has been protecting the economic status and promoting the craft of costume design. </span><br /><br /><div><div><div><div><div><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 213px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599190270079712370" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmAr50GZR2LYQX7_wqNTreOSuVfKH9-Z-q3tco-99yOy7K3yY7NFdMyGKGtKE8ZcXxm3CijDkjzrHZxSxXykph-XkrUWuoUzJV1U6NL0iMWKEyXGfh4T_ZLKf-9acpnui6KYqLEMmXOII/s320/4876615480_8a16de972b.jpg" /> <span style="font-size:85%;"><div style="text-align: center;">Anna Wyckoff and fellow costume designer, Salvador Perez</div></span><div><br /><p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:georgia;">In her article, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">The Relationship Between Costume and Fashion Design </i>(2010), Wyckoff seeks to define fashion and costume design as separate entities that converge. Costume is, by definition, “a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical period”. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes"></span>Fashion is “a popular trend, especially in styles of dress and ornament or manners of behavior.” <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Fashion and costume design differ in purpose. Fashion is geared towards commerce and public consumption, whereas costume is exclusive in that the clothing is designed for an actor in a specific role.</b></span></p><br /><p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:georgia;">Drawing from examples in costume design history, Wyckoff assesses the harmony between fashion and costume design. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes"></span>In the 1920s and 1930s, films became a source of fashion inspiration. Actresses Greta Garbo, Katharine Hepburn, and Joan Crawford became fashion icons, and Hollywood stole the fashion power away from Paris. Costume continues to leave an impression on fashion. Networks and studios endorse spin-off clothing collections of popular films like Hannah Montana or TV shows like Mad Men. </span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkcUS_3zvXcPAa69Au29h3Vg_-a1m9AFUeARs3jMDQEHR2VN7wljQ-u8WUvqafuyP9WZG4zG82twBeX9LzIDkqgnMqaQH5aThp9tLBL0-gS1_EGYEllr86F76VAeFzndJ6tipuNYR2kBg/s1600/Mad%252520Men%2525201.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 237px; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599189005791034178" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkcUS_3zvXcPAa69Au29h3Vg_-a1m9AFUeARs3jMDQEHR2VN7wljQ-u8WUvqafuyP9WZG4zG82twBeX9LzIDkqgnMqaQH5aThp9tLBL0-gS1_EGYEllr86F76VAeFzndJ6tipuNYR2kBg/s320/Mad%252520Men%2525201.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><div style="text-align: center;">The Fashions of Mad Men</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div></span><p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:georgia;">Wyckoff focuses on how costume designers construct a character in a film/TV show out of fashion labels. This was expertly done by Patricia Fields—the costume designer of Sex & the City—who slapped brands like Manolo Blahnik onto Sarah Jessica Parker’s character Carrie Bradshaw; Fields turned herself and Blahnik into household names thanks to the popularity of the Sex & the City. </span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZVX7oD2tufAQdyLhT-M-YRAqAQ7gOVgwQv7Xj5nyMqfR7hTwSpPcpwZfA4LFgtfKeDA3clgm0IFdg4Kw5KlicTwpFqbJDh8sHE7X_nyqxMlBLrECK6MNozW_CHP1dwWRhOMUm6iFQp4A/s1600/Patricia_Field_Sarah_Jessica_Parker_May20newsne.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 320px; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599189385093763058" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZVX7oD2tufAQdyLhT-M-YRAqAQ7gOVgwQv7Xj5nyMqfR7hTwSpPcpwZfA4LFgtfKeDA3clgm0IFdg4Kw5KlicTwpFqbJDh8sHE7X_nyqxMlBLrECK6MNozW_CHP1dwWRhOMUm6iFQp4A/s320/Patricia_Field_Sarah_Jessica_Parker_May20newsne.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><div style="text-align: center;">Patricia Field and Sarah Jessica Parker on the set of Sex&theCity 2</div></span><br /><p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:georgia;">Patricia Field is an exception to the countless costume designers who are overshadowed by the celebrities they clothe or the fashion labels they use. The role of the costume designer is not always visible. Wyckoff stresses the importance of the costume designer by citing popular films which partly owe their success to the costume designer.</span></p><p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:georgia;">In Eat, Pray, Love, the main character Liz’s wardrobe is inspired by the places that she travels to. This was the intention of costume designer Michael Dennison, who wanted her clothing to be an extension of her character and complement her transformation. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes"></span>Throughout Liz’s spiritual journey, her clothing undergoes changes as well.</span></p><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 210px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599190949335749282" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXzlziTQ7YGymW23YGIhJLFiVhf_tXbLU7cS7LTBgmkXZ7dWAVO0AjWlPd0KAChfIQEHTaH8rWJlZCAPdXXqAcU-bSiCHOLhyphenhyphenhafXbBvrzeRkK8ParrFe3Luj9Toed-K_VsBYi_Lwj5js/s320/article-1305177-0AC67481000005DC-453_634x417.jpg" /> <span style="font-size:85%;"><div style="text-align: center;">Julia Roberts in her Bali attire</div></span><br /><p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:georgia;">Costume design helps flesh out the character, according to costume designer Suttirat Anne Larlarb. Larlarb has worked on The American with George Clooney and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Beastly</i> with Vanessa Hudgens. Larlarb uses real life—such as yearbooks or Flicker.com—to inform her costume design. In doing so, she strengthens our connection to the characters. The characters she clothes are often understated and quirky instead of immaculately coiffed and artificial-looking. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes"></span></span></p><br /><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 213px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599191503872213314" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaLMEy0fj7rADPSO-psPvjkhW5AEXxxBdJSZB0OxeXv8dLIsem9fPK21t5G1bqgH9AkmwZdlIow8kqhLP7vWfIpNu5t7KeyJDt8SQ5-PRFrH_ScYiCIx_ocsy90630Z_k4efPDZG7v3hw/s320/Vanessa_Hudgens_-_Beastly.jpg" /> <span style="font-size:85%;"><div style="text-align: center;">Vanessa Hudgens in Beastly (2011)</div></span><br /><p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:georgia;">Costume designer Arianne Phillips, who has designed for films like <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Knight & Day</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">A Single Man</i>, says that costume designers have more freedom in period films than they do in contemporary films. This is because in contemporary films, the directors, producers, and actors have access to the latest fashions and so they have more input in what the characters should wear. An actress might stroll onto the film set in her own dress and argue with the costume designer that what she is wearing perfectly suits her character. In period films, the costume designer has almost exclusive access to the wardrobe—whether the costume designer seeks out vintage pieces or constructs the clothing by hand. </span></p><br /><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599193714357578818" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2WOJFjoB2iM8A_mvry84qw2qmrbMPQUk6qYxzi7AdmNC4-LCxuE0WvrojK7tw-lODpEDrED6qw_HF5QWBINdZjvNXu6KirdrVbIIFF4F-pkfzvGDJXIzr_CUgEalUoCGd8s4TvwkbwBg/s320/A-Single-Man_l.jpg" /><span style="font-size:85%;"><div style="text-align: center;">A Single Man (2009) set in the 1960's</div></span><br /><br /><p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt" class="MsoNormal"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 253px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5599192310553352802" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2_ONVYRL-SceXkK1FJuGttGq9pBy8ofts0wK3woaXH3I2Ul48T1WEECjWlhv6vOTIwzBAxXvxkZ1CA305PZvcZusmSgKX0U3HzAeIiQ-XWgTKiTnr6B6VZupjb6ZlWAc85VKrSdjUqaI/s320/knight_day16.jpg" /></p></div></div></div></div></div></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><div style="text-align: center;">Knight & Day (2010) set in the present-day</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9036638656629824828.post-20410499718772955152011-04-23T08:22:00.000-07:002011-04-23T13:45:19.829-07:00Film Costume: The King's Speech (2010)<div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnVE5CeD530WqVRn3DqW81pBk7sv-e-7HDo_8uORXphrtX_YaKNYzvV9koHaGz8WTgm_W2f76V4-mpPoaP6FYeyiUOf14KE80i6U5WHe-uN0Tnt23LQcf7W1YYl1x1VOEazQBU-GR-k0/s1600/King%2527s+Speech.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnVE5CeD530WqVRn3DqW81pBk7sv-e-7HDo_8uORXphrtX_YaKNYzvV9koHaGz8WTgm_W2f76V4-mpPoaP6FYeyiUOf14KE80i6U5WHe-uN0Tnt23LQcf7W1YYl1x1VOEazQBU-GR-k0/s320/King%2527s+Speech.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5598804653756740674" /></a><br />By: Angela Gahng <div><br /></div><div>King's Speech is about King George VI of Britain overcoming his speech imperative struggle. King George VI is played by Colin Firth who is thrown into power after his brother, George gives up his throne as the king. Bertie, King Geroge VI believes he is unfit for the role because of his speech problem. The story is all about the struggle to overcome his stammered speech. It was interesting to see that his title and attire that went along with his role gave the character so much power and control. If worn any basic suite or jacket he could easily blend in with the crowd in Britain. Through his formal general suite that clearly associated him as a royal hier, gave him presences and attention. If an ordinary citizen had a speech imperative problem he or she back in the days would have had trouble being taken serious. But through Bertie's title and royal appearance he is respected in the crowd. When he is presented to the general public he comes out always dressed in the commander and chief attire. The badges along with the gold sleeves and buttons shows presences. The suite covers his insecure speech imperative problem and allows the public to view him as a respectful figure, a king. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0